???f fixed ??? (was "high rpm miss .......... any updates???")

[James W. Flower]

I'm the one with the high rpm miss on my A13. I'm kibbitzing on the oscilloscope thread, and I did say I'd ask the local shops about it, partly because your discussion is way over my head. They open tomorrow, but read on: I may not call. I tried to use a timing light and so much oil spewed out of the access hole that I couldn't even begin to get a reading. Perhaps the tilt of the sidestand was enough to cause the gusher. I have a stand that holds the bike upright, but I'm not sure it's stable enough to use while the bike is running. I have no clue how to ride the bike with a timing light hooked up to it, as it seemed someone here was suggesting. But meanwhile, I replaced the diode unit with another, used, one, just because it only cost $10 on eBay. Then I did a two ten-mile test ride at 5000 rpm. The miss has always started within two miles, but it didn't appear at all. To make sure it was the diode unit that fixed the problem, I put the old one back in, and made the exact same ten-mile ride; if the miss reappeared, I'd be satisfied that I'd found the problem. Surprise, surprise: the miss did not return. Yesterday I did a six-mile test, still with the original diode installed: still no miss. So, what fixed the problem? I have no idea. The good news is it's fixed. The bad news is, since I didn't find the cause, I have no way of knowing the odds of it reccurring. So, do I turn a blind eye to the gift horse and take the 200 to 400-mile trips I'd been planning? Or do I continue to check and/or replace components, etc., hoping to find a bad one, though I'm experiencing no symptoms? (The six-mile test yesterday was at the end of a 200-mile day trip during which I never ran above 4500 and never had the problem, she ran like a top. Only on last leg was I on freeway, and as I say, no miss. ?!?!?!?!?!?.) -James

[Norm Keller]

Revmaatin's mention of not bolting the seat reminded that one of my favorite mods is to cut the front out of the two seat mounting ear holes. This produces a hook or loop on each side which can be slip forward over the two mounting bolts. I either cut a couple of spacer tubes to fit over the bolts or install shoulder bolts.

 

Slip the seat down into position and then forward to catch the hooks. If one isn't quite far enough back the hooks get pushed together and won't go over the bolts but that simply requires pulling them open again. After a bit one becomes quite adept.

 

Some people have posted photos of metal reinforcements attached on one or both sides of the hook to keep the hooks from closing but I've not resorted to that.

 

It's handy to be able to slip the seat on and off for battery access and for fuse access unless one has relocated. Not a bad idea to take the seat into the motel in some areas either....

 

HIH

[Eddie]

I opted to remove the seat bolts altogether and added industrial strength hook and loop tape ("Velcro") to the bottom of the seat pan where it contacts the subframe rails. The front of the seat still slipped up onto the tank bracket and then the rear pressed down on the velcro. I never had a problem with the seta coming loose or feeling insecure. The unmodified bolt "ears" offered side-to-side stability. If I needed to get under the seat, all it took was an easy tug straight up on the rear of the seat and then a pull away from the tank. -eddie  

----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650] [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, June 24, 2014 12:54 PM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: Seat removal modification   Revmaatin's mention of not bolting the seat reminded that one of my favorite mods is to cut the front out of the two seat mounting ear holes. This produces a hook or loop on each side which can be slip forward over the two mounting bolts. I either cut a couple of spacer tubes to fit over the bolts or install shoulder bolts.   Slip the seat down into position and then forward to catch the hooks. If one isn't quite far enough back the hooks get pushed together and won't go over the bolts but that simply requires pulling them open again. After a bit one becomes quite adept.   Some people have posted photos of metal reinforcements attached on one or both sides of the hook to keep the hooks from closing but I've not resorted to that.   It's handy to be able to slip the seat on and off for battery access and for fuse access unless one has relocated. Not a bad idea to take the seat into the motel in some areas either....   HIH