2003 klr won't start ## another correction##

[Dan]

All other electrics on my KLR work fine with the exception of the "start" button. I really like the look of my bike but I'd much rather be riding it instead of just looking at it. Any suggestions of what to check and in what order? Thanks in advance folks.

[Jeff Saline]

On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 15:24:41 -0000 "Dan" writes:

> All other electrics on my KLR work fine with the exception of the > "start" button. I really like the look of my bike but I'd much > rather be riding it instead of just looking at it. Any suggestions > of what to check and in what order? Thanks in advance folks.

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> Dan, First check the kill switch. : ) Next check the clutch is pulled in and the green neutral light on the instrument cluster is lit. Try the start button. If that didn't do it hold the start button in while you play with the clutch lever in and out. Maybe the clutch switch is a little out of adjustment and it will the crank. If so adjust the clutch switch which is below the clutch lever pivot. If it still doesn't crank pull the black plastic cover above the left footpeg. The starter solenoid has the two heavy battery cable attached to it. Kind of in front of and between the heavy terminals is a small push on connector with two small wires. Make sure the small connector is fully pushed into the solenoid. Try the starter button. If it still doesn't crank make sure the bike is really in neutral so when you get it to crank it doesn't jump away from you. : ) Take a short piece of electrical wire with the insulation striped from both ends for about 1/2 inch. On the small connector the wires are color coded. Black with Yellow is ground. The other wire is black and I can't recall if there is another wire there too that is yellow and black. The black wire is positive. Get ready to hear the bike crank so you aren't startled by this. Take the short wire and put one end into the small connector (still connected to the solenoid) so the metal touches the connector of the small black (positive) wire. Don't put it on the other wire or you will have "issues". Briefly touch (don't connect) the other end of the short wire to the heavy terminal on the right side (rear of bike end) of the solenoid. That terminal is the same as the positive battery terminal. All you are using it for is to get battery voltage. When you touch the wire to the terminal the bike should crank. If the bike cranks go to ### below. If the bike doesn't crank take another short piece of electrical wire and again strip insulation from each end. Put one end in the small connector touching the black/yellow wire (ground). Hold the other end of that wire to ground (bare metal or the negative battery terminal). Again touch the first wire to the right terminal of the solenoid and the bike should crank. If it does there is a problem in the ground connection (black/yellow wire) of the solenoid. ### The problem is between the starter button and the starter circuit relay and the starter solenoid. Let the list know what you find after doing the above and we can proceed as appropriate. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . ____________________________________________________________ Political system upset? Democrats BIG advantage in America about to completely vanish http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/51bcdc50e72ab5c5006b3st03vuc

[Jeff Saline]

Dan, So far so good. Now you know the battery, heavy battery cables and starter solenoid are good. First thing I'd check is the wiring below the instrument cluster. There are some connectors there and I'd make sure they are all tightly connected. You should be able to trace the wire harness from the starter button to locate the correct connector for the starter system. I would first pull on the connector to see if it comes apart. Then I would push on it to see if it would tighten/click. I would also try the starter button each time I did something to see if the starter would turn. If the below instrument connector doesn't make a difference I would go back by the left footpeg area. Below the starter solenoid and in front is a starter circuit relay. It's next to the side stand switch or the place it was. Yeah, a relay to trip a relay to allow the starter to work. : ) It's about the size of a roll of quarters and probably has a rubber cover over the wires/connector. I would work the rubber cover up/off so I could see the connector. There should be four wires, two yellow/red, one blue/red and one black. Again I'd pull on it first and then push on it. Try the starter button. If it cranks it was a loose connection. If it doesn't crank unplug and plug it back on and make sure it's tight. Try it again. If it still doesn't crank take a short piece of wire with the ends striped of insulation. Bend it in a "U" shape and put one end in with the black wire and the other end in with a yellow/red wire. Then press the starter button and see if it cranks. If it cranks the starter relay is not working. Let us know what happens and we can continue if needed. There is a "test" relay located on your bike as the starter relay and fan relay are identical. There are also a few "inexpensive" replacements available from a local auto parts stores. If you need to continue tell me if you have a test light and or multi-meter and the skills/knowledge/desire to use them. Best, Jeff On Sun, 16 Jun 2013 14:51:14 -0700 (PDT) Dan Lammon writes: Jeff, your suggestions worked perfectly. Nothing worked until I got to the starter solenoid and connected the wire to the black wire and the positive terminal of the battery. It cranked right up. So, this means the problem is somewhere between the starter button and starter relay and the starter solenoid? What do I do next? Dan

--- On Sat, 6/15/13, Jeff Saline wrote: From: Jeff Saline Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] 2003 KLR won't start To: dan.lammon@... Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Saturday, June 15, 2013, 9:27 PM On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 15:24:41 -0000 "Dan" writes: > All other electrics on my KLR work fine with the exception of the > "start" button. I really like the look of my bike but I'd much > rather be riding it instead of just looking at it. Any suggestions > of what to check and in what order? Thanks in advance folks. <><><><><><> <><><><><><> Dan, First check the kill switch. : ) Next check the clutch is pulled in and the green neutral light on the instrument cluster is lit. Try the start button. If that didn't do it hold the start button in while you play with the clutch lever in and out. Maybe the clutch switch is a little out of adjustment and it will the crank. If so adjust the clutch switch which is below the clutch lever pivot. If it still doesn't crank pull the black plastic cover above the left footpeg. The starter solenoid has the two heavy battery cable attached to it. Kind of in front of and between the heavy terminals is a small push on connector with two small wires. Make sure the small connector is fully pushed into the solenoid. Try the starter button. If it still doesn't crank make sure the bike is really in neutral so when you get it to crank it doesn't jump away from you. : ) Take a short piece of electrical wire with the insulation striped from both ends for about 1/2 inch. On the small connector the wires are color coded. Black with Yellow is ground. The other wire is black and I can't recall if there is another wire there too that is yellow and black. The black wire is positive. Get ready to hear the bike crank so you aren't startled by this. Take the short wire and put one end into the small connector (still connected to the solenoid) so the metal touches the connector of the small black (positive) wire. Don't put it on the other wire or you will have "issues". Briefly touch (don't connect) the other end of the short wire to the heavy terminal on the right side (rear of bike end) of the solenoid. That terminal is the same as the positive battery terminal. All you are using it for is to get battery voltage. When you touch the wire to the terminal the bike should crank. If the bike cranks go to ### below. If the bike doesn't crank take another short piece of electrical wire and again strip insulation from each end. Put one end in the small connector touching the black/yellow wire (ground). Hold the other end of that wire to ground (bare metal or the negative battery terminal). Again touch the first wire to the right terminal of the solenoid and the bike should crank. If it does there is a problem in the ground connection (black/yellow wire) of the solenoid. ### The problem is between the starter button and the starter circuit relay and the starter solenoid. Let the list know what you find after doing the above and we can proceed as appropriate. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . ____________________________________________________________ Political system upset? Democrats BIG advantage in America about to completely vanish http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/51be4532b9e93453267b4st03vuc [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[SM]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Dan" wrote:

> > All other electrics on my KLR work fine with the exception of the "start" button. I really like the look of my bike but I'd much rather be riding it instead of just looking at it. Any suggestions of what to check and in what order? Thanks in advance folks. >

Check the battery terminal cable connections first. Tighten them with a big Phillips screwdriver.

[Jeff Saline]

Dan, Just had another thought. If the clutch switch adjustment doesn't work maybe very carefully remove the screws and open the switch. It's really pretty simple if you are observant and have a bit of light on the area. Clean the contacts inside the switch. Maybe all you had happen is it got dirty and finally couldn't make electrical contact. I'd use electrical contact cleaner if it was in my shop but WD-40 would work too if you have that. I think the diode trio is not the issue and not worth the effort until you have opened the clutch switch, cleaned it and determined it is working correctly. Only then might it be worth investigating. Let us know what happens. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 <><><><><><> <><><><><><> On Mon, 17 Jun 2013 16:20:57 -0600 Jeff Saline writes:

> Dan, > > You've made good progress. You're correct the issue is in the > "safety" > system to keep you from starting the bike when in gear if the > clutch > isn't pulled in. The side stand switch is only to shut off the > ignition > system if the bike is in gear and the clutch is engaged (i.e. > riding/moving) and the side stand is down. It has nothing to do > with the > cranking system. > > You have a green neutral light so that should also be a good ground > for > the system so something is "tricky" with your bike. > > My first suggestion is to get the bike working so you can ride it. > To do > this I would first try adjusting the clutch switch which is located > below > the clutch lever. It is about an inch long and a bit over 1/4 inch > wide. > It has two phillips headed screws, one at each end. All you need > to do > is loosen them a very small amount and that will allow the switch > to > slide one way or the other. Note to yourself where it is located so > you > have a starting point if you want to return it to that place. I > would > move it towards one end of the adjustment and see if the starter > works in > that position. Clutch pulled in and if it doesn't crank try moving > the > lever in and out while holding the starter button. If it still > doesn't > crank then maybe try moving the switch in the other direction and > test > again. > > That will hopefully get you riding again. If that doesn't do it > you > could also check the diode trio which connects a couple of wires for > the > "safety" stuff. It's located under the tank on the right side above > the > engine head. It's about 1/2" by 1/2" by maybe 1 1/4" long. Make > sure > the wire connector is correctly fastened. > > Now there is one other thing you could do if you want to eliminate > this > nonsense. Just add a permanent ground to the blue/red wire. That > will > allow the starter to engage anytime the starter button is pressed if > the > key is on. > > To bypass the clutch switch you could also, at the switch, connect > the > black/yellow and the blue/red wires which is the same as adding a > permanent ground wire at the relay. This is what I did on my bike > as I > don't care for the issues associated with a bad or out of > adjustment > switch. > > Let us know what happens with the clutch switch adjustment and we > can > move on if needed. But I'm running out of long distance advice. : > ) > > Best, > > Jeff > > On Mon, 17 Jun 2013 14:49:02 -0700 (PDT) Dan Lammon > writes: > Jeff, > The bike cranked when connecting the blue/red wire to a ground. So, > the > problem must be in the "safety" system. Does this have something to > do > with the kickstand shutoff switch? > Awaiting further instructions, > Dan > > --- On Mon, 6/17/13, Jeff Saline wrote: > > > From: Jeff Saline > Subject: 2003 KLR won't start ## Another CORRECTION## > To: dan.lammon@... > Cc: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Date: Monday, June 17, 2013, 5:04 PM > > > Dan, > > Just realized in paragraph 4 below I wasn't clear. On the starter > solenoid put the wire on the SMALL black wire in the connector. I > just > realized there are three black wires on the starter solenoid. : ) > > Best, > > Jeff > > On Mon, 17 Jun 2013 10:52:36 -0600 Jeff Saline > writes: > > Dan, > > > > I had a chance to think about this some more while catching some > > local > > brown trout. Let's continue without the test light or multi-meter > > > for a > > bit. I really don't want to try to explain how to use a > multi-meter > > via > > e-mail. It's already complicated enough when teaching that in > > person. > > > > Just to be clear... you did have the key on when you did the > > tests, > > right??? : ) > > > > Take the short wire with insulation striped from the ends and put > > > one end > > in the connector of the starter relay on the blue/red wire. > Connect > > the > > other end to a good ground. Try the starter button. If it cranks > > > there > > is an issue with the "safety" system. > > > > If it didn't crank connect the wire to the black wire on the > > STARTER > > SOLENOID (i.e. first part you jumped and it worked) and the other > > > end to > > the yellow/red wire on the starter relay. Try the starter > button. > > > > If it still didn't work pull the fuel tank. Above the engine > > head/valve > > cover I think on the right side (my 2003 isn't stock in this area > > anymore) is the fan relay. It is the same part as the starter > > relay. > > Unplug it and put it in place of the starter relay. Try the > > starter > > button. If it cranks you have a bad relay. If it doesn't let us > > > know > > and we can continue. > > > > Best, > > > > Jeff Saline > > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > > > > > On Mon, 17 Jun 2013 05:48:27 -0700 (PDT) Dan Lammon > > writes: > > OK, followed the instructions and no luck in getting it cranked. > > > Looks > > like I'll need to continue with the checks. Don't currently have > a > > test > > light or multitester but I should be able to use one with no > > problem. > > I'll go pick one up (which one would you recommend?) today and > > prepare > > for you next instructions. > > Dan > > > > On Sun, 6/16/13, Jeff Saline wrote: > > > > > > From: Jeff Saline > > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] 2003 KLR won't start ##CORRECTION## > > To: dan.lammon@... > > Cc: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > > Date: Sunday, June 16, 2013, 11:12 PM > > > > > > > > Dan, > > > > Just thinking about what I wrote below. Do the stuff above the > left > > footpeg first. If it doesn't crank then do the connector check > below > > the > > instrument cluster. No point in checking below the instrument > > cluster if > > the footpeg stuff works as that will prove the wiring is good > > between the > > starter button and the starter relay. > > > > Best, > > > > Jeff > > > > On Sun, 16 Jun 2013 17:05:59 -0600 Jeff Saline > > > writes: > > Dan, > > > > So far so good. Now you know the battery, heavy battery cables > and > > starter solenoid are good. > > > > First thing I'd check is the wiring below the instrument cluster. > > > There > > are some connectors there and I'd make sure they are all tightly > > connected. You should be able to trace the wire harness from the > > starter > > button to locate the correct connector for the starter system. I > > would > > first pull on the connector to see if it comes apart. Then I would > > > push > > on it to see if it would tighten/click. I would also try the > > starter > > button each time I did something to see if the starter would > turn. > > > > If the below instrument connector doesn't make a difference I > would > > go > > back by the left footpeg area. Below the starter solenoid and in > > front > > is a starter circuit relay. It's next to the side stand switch or > > > the > > place it was. Yeah, a relay to trip a relay to allow the starter > to > > work. : ) It's about the size of a roll of quarters and probably > has > > a > > rubber cover over the wires/connector. I would work the rubber > > cover > > up/off so I could see the connector. There should be four wires, > > two > > yellow/red, one blue/red and one black. Again I'd pull on it first > > > and > > then push on it. Try the starter button. If it cranks it was a > > loose > > connection. If it doesn't crank unplug and plug it back on and > make > > sure > > it's tight. Try it again. > > > > If it still doesn't crank take a short piece of wire with the > ends > > striped of insulation. Bend it in a "U" shape and put one end in > > with > > the black wire and the other end in with a yellow/red wire. Then > > press > > the starter button and see if it cranks. If it cranks the starter > > > relay > > is not working. > > > > Let us know what happens and we can continue if needed. There is > a > > "test" relay located on your bike as the starter relay and fan > relay > > are > > identical. There are also a few "inexpensive" replacements > > available > > from a local auto parts stores. > > > > If you need to continue tell me if you have a test light and or > > multi-meter and the skills/knowledge/desire to use them. > > > > Best, > > > > Jeff > > > > On Sun, 16 Jun 2013 14:51:14 -0700 (PDT) Dan Lammon > > writes: > > Jeff, your suggestions worked perfectly. Nothing worked until I > got > > to > > the starter solenoid and connected the wire to the black wire and > > > the > > positive terminal of the battery. It cranked right up. > > So, this means the problem is somewhere between the starter button > > > and > > starter relay and the starter solenoid? What do I do next? > > Dan > > > > --- On Sat, 6/15/13, Jeff Saline wrote: > > > > From: Jeff Saline > > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] 2003 KLR won't start > > To: dan.lammon@... > > Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > Date: Saturday, June 15, 2013, 9:27 PM > > > > On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 15:24:41 -0000 "Dan" > > writes: > > > All other electrics on my KLR work fine with the exception of > the > > > > > "start" button. I really like the look of my bike but I'd much > > > rather be riding it instead of just looking at it. Any > suggestions > > > > > of what to check and in what order? Thanks in advance folks. > > <><><><><><> > > <><><><><><> > > > > Dan, > > > > First check the kill switch. : ) > > > > Next check the clutch is pulled in and the green neutral light on > > > the > > instrument cluster is lit. Try the start button. > > > > If that didn't do it hold the start button in while you play with > > > the > > clutch lever in and out. Maybe the clutch switch is a little out > of > > adjustment and it will the crank. If so adjust the clutch switch > > which > > is below the clutch lever pivot. > > > > If it still doesn't crank pull the black plastic cover above the > > left > > footpeg. The starter solenoid has the two heavy battery cable > > attached > > to it. Kind of in front of and between the heavy terminals is a > > small > > push on connector with two small wires. Make sure the small > > connector is > > fully pushed into the solenoid. Try the starter button. > > > > If it still doesn't crank make sure the bike is really in neutral > so > > when > > you get it to crank it doesn't jump away from you. : ) Take a > short > > piece of electrical wire with the insulation striped from both > ends > > for > > about 1/2 inch. On the small connector the wires are color coded. > > > Black > > with Yellow is ground. The other wire is black and I can't recall > > > if > > there is another wire there too that is yellow and black. The > black > > wire > > is positive. Get ready to hear the bike crank so you aren't > startled > > by > > this. Take the short wire and put one end into the small > connector > > (still connected to the solenoid) so the metal touches the > connector > > of > > the small black (positive) wire. Don't put it on the other wire or > > > you > > will have "issues". Briefly touch (don't connect) the other end of > > > the > > short wire to the heavy terminal on the right side (rear of bike > > end) of > > the solenoid. That terminal is the same as the positive battery > > terminal. All you are using it for is to get battery voltage. When > > > you > > touch the wire to the terminal the bike should crank. If the bike > > > cranks > > go to ### below. > > > > If the bike doesn't crank take another short piece of electrical > > wire and > > again strip insulation from each end. Put one end in the small > > connector > > touching the black/yellow wire (ground). Hold the other end of > that > > wire to ground (bare metal or the negative battery terminal). > Again > > touch the first wire to the right terminal of the solenoid and the > > > bike > > should crank. If it does there is a problem in the ground > > connection > > (black/yellow wire) of the solenoid. > > > > ### > > The problem is between the starter button and the starter circuit > > > relay > > and the starter solenoid. > > > > Let the list know what you find after doing the above and we can > > proceed > > as appropriate. > > > > Best, > > > > Jeff Saline > > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > > > . > > . > > . > ____________________________________________________________ > 30-second trick for a flat belly > This daily 30-second trick BOOSTS your body's #1 fat-burning > hormone > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/51bf8c06c6782c0643f4st01vuc > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ------------------------------------ > > List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com > Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: > http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Members Map >

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[SM]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Dan" wrote:

> > All other electrics on my KLR work fine with the exception of the "start" button. I really like the look of my bike but I'd much rather be riding it instead of just looking at it. Any suggestions of what to check and in what order? Thanks in advance folks. >

Your safety switches will fail, if they haven't already. I googled "KLR safety switch bypass" and got this pretty concise result: " 1. Remove the smaller "starter circuit relay" from up behind the petcock. It is kept within a small rubber holder that hangs on a little metal tab. 2. Make a 3 inch jumper using 14g wire and (2) 1/4 inch spade terminals. 3. Install the jumper into the relay connector. Make sure the jumper is connecting the black wire to one of the Y/R wires. Either one, both Y/R wires are connected back within the harness. 4. With bike in NUETRAL, test the jumper by hitting the starter button. Key should be in the ON position, OFF/RUN switch in the RUN position. 5. If test is successfull, wrap jumper with several layers of black electrical tape and tuck into the rubber holder from the relay. Re-install on metal tab Keep old circuit relay in spares box. This relay is the same part no as fan relay. Bike should now start, clutch-in or clutch-out, in nuetral or in gear. Be warned, when you push the starter button the bike starts -period!" I did it to both of my klrs, it has worked on my '99 for a decade. Whether you decide do it to yours is up to you. Easy peasy.

[Jeff Saline]

Stu, That's a good write up on how to by pass/remove the relay. I just had a talk with a local rider. His clutch switch was by passed in a similar manner with the jumper wire just pushed into the connector. This last winter he put upside down forks on his KLR and while moving the controls around dislodged the jumper for his switch. Said it took him a while to figure out the issue but got it fixed. So maybe making sure the electrical connections are very secure could be important in reducing stress down the road. I've had the discussion a few times with folks about why Kawasaki engineers would have a relay control a relay. Most think it is stupid. I have a different thought as I wonder if the engineers did calculations on the amperage involved in triggering the starting solenoid and decided it was more than the switch contacts could repeatedly handle. So maybe they added the relay that would take significantly less current to trigger which would add life to the starter button electrical contacts. But I've heard of a few guys that have removed the relay and don't have issues. Just like you. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . ____________________________________________________________ Fast, Secure, NetZero 4G Mobile Broadband. Try it. http://www.netzero.net/?refcd=NZINTISP0512T4GOUT2