troubleshooting - no headlight - minor correction

DSN_KLR650
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Enlow, Kyle S
Posts: 68
Joined: Fri Jun 16, 2000 7:10 am

i did it!

Post by Enlow, Kyle S » Thu Jul 13, 2000 11:00 am

After listening to the advice on this list for 6 months I bought a 1988 KLR. I guess that is an A2? I went and road it this morning and it road good. Much different from my NightHawk 750. The KLR has 14000 miles on it and new tires. I paid $800.00 for it. I guess this is a good deal? Anyway I am looking forward to riding it. If I like it I may sell the NightHawk and buy a 2001 KLR. Thanks Kyle

Enlow, Kyle S
Posts: 68
Joined: Fri Jun 16, 2000 7:10 am

i did it!

Post by Enlow, Kyle S » Thu Jul 13, 2000 12:01 pm

-----Original Message----- From: Enlow, Kyle S Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 10:22 AM To: DSN_klr650@egroups.com Subject: I did it! After listening to the advice on this list for 6 months I bought a 1988 KLR. I guess that is an A2? I went and road it this morning and it road good. Much different from my NightHawk 750. The KLR has 14000 miles on it and new tires. I paid $800.00 for it. I guess this is a good deal? Anyway I am looking forward to riding it. If I like it I may sell the NightHawk and buy a 2001 KLR. Thanks Kyle

LawsonCL@aol.com
Posts: 63
Joined: Wed Apr 19, 2000 3:08 pm

i did it!

Post by LawsonCL@aol.com » Thu Jul 13, 2000 2:12 pm

jimc@... writes:
> The KLR is kind of like my wife, I did not appreciate her fully > until I had ridden her a while!
Say, uh, Jim, if your wife is, well, as gratifying as your KLR...and we're talkin' great rides for $800, I could probably find the checkbook.... Chris

LawsonCL@aol.com
Posts: 63
Joined: Wed Apr 19, 2000 3:08 pm

i did it!

Post by LawsonCL@aol.com » Thu Jul 13, 2000 5:02 pm

Jim, Well, I was thinking this might be long-distance kinda' deal, not just a Harley-type outting. And, considering what my two divorces cost me, $800.00 is coffee change. Anyway, let me confirm that I'm reading between the lines with clarity; you're saying "no deal?" --Chris Lawson JimC@... writes:
> I hope for your sake that you are not desperate enough to pay $800 for a > little tush! And yes, she is as gratifying in more ways than I can count: > both the KLR and my wife!

Steve Anderson
Posts: 198
Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2000 11:58 am

troubleshooting - no headlight - minor correction

Post by Steve Anderson » Mon Oct 16, 2000 2:02 pm

I posted "the klr has a reputation for blowing fuses." It should have been "the klr has a reputation for blowing headlight fuses." I am not aware that they klr has a higher than normal problem with the other two fuses. oops --- In DSN_klr650@egroups.com, "Steve Anderson" wrote:
> The klr has a reputation for blowing fuses. This is something I
posted to
> the list back in March. It may help. > > ============================ > > > I have seen a lot of comments on blown headlight fuses, and was one
of the
> unlucky ones that HAD a problem. First thing I noticed, was that
my bulb
> had loose bits of filament bouncing around in there, shorting who
knows
> what. Second thing, as with all bikes I've ridden, the high/low
switch is of
> the "make before break" variety, meaning that while during the
transition
> while switching, BOTH filaments are lit. In some of my bikes,
while on the
> trails at night I used to take advantage of this by deliberately
putting the
> switch between high and low, to run both filaments, getting the
combined
> light output/coverage. Point is, even with the stock 55/60W, WHEN
both
> filaments are lit, it is consuming at least 115W. BTW cold
filaments have
> an initial "inrush" current slightly higher than the rated load.
115W @ 12
> V = 9.58A (momentarily for those of you that don't cheat and put
the switch
> in the middle. Tail lamp 5W + ~10W for instrument lights (possibly
another
> 20W or so fro the turn signal). > > Bottom line: this gives us 130W @ 12V = 10.83A minimum, momentarily
while
> switching the high/low beams, on a completely stock KLR, with out
the turn
> signal running. Nearly 1 amp more than the 10 amp fuse. I was
always
> taught to wire a circuit with 20% margin meaning that 10.83A + 20%
= 13 A
> circuit. Since it appears that all the wiring on this circuit is
18AWG, and
> 18AWG is "safe" running 15 amps forever and ever, even at high
temps, check
> the National Electric Code (NEC) if you don't believe me, I
replaced the 10
> amp fuse with a 15 amp unit. I have also replaced my bulb with a
90/55
> (13.33A total momentary w/o turn sig). I have not blown a fuse
since.
> > > Now before I get some nasty responses, I am NOT trying to say that
this IS
> the fuse blowing problem, I don't have the data to support that. I
am only
> trying to post a reasonable hypothesis to this issue.... > > > Steve (no blown fuses) Anderson > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@egroups.com, Tom Vervaeke
wrote:
> > Hello: > > > > Need some bits of advise on what's up. On a dual sport ride last > > Saturday my headlight stopped functioning. We had just completed > > a long day (400 miles) of street and dirt. Was driving back
towards
> > home when my friend in front of me (on the street) waved me up and > > said my headlight had just gone out, i.e. it was on and then it > > just stopped. I selected low beam and no luck. No headlight.
Rushed
> > a bit to get home but made it home about 1 hour prior to dark.
Whew.
> > > > According to the manual there are 3 things that can go wrong: > > > > 1. Bulb burns out. > > 2. Blew a fuse > > 3. Problem with switch on handlebar. > > > > I immediately removed the headlight bulb and examine it. It looked > > fine to me but I put in the spare bulb and no luck. It was not the > > bulb. Put old bulb back in. I also checked for voltage at the > > headlight socket and no luck. No juice anywhere there. I have made > > no mods to the bike that would affect this. The only thing in > > that area I did lately was to override the clutch safety switch by > > doing the modification listed on the KLR mods page. Not sure how > > this could affect that. > > > > Wife summoned me to go out to dinner. No more time to work on KLR. > > > > So, the only two other things it can be is the fuse or the switch. > > It appears there are two fuses under the seat and another one up > > front for the radiator fan. I will have time tonight to remove the > > side panels and seat in order to get to the fuses. Are there any > > other fuses? Both the owners manual and the service manual are
really
> > pretty pathetic and don't even state which fuse is which. I'm
guessing
> > it's not the fuse and I can't imagine what could have caused it to > > blow as I was riding down the street. I came across Arne's write
up
> > on the replacement of the fuse box with the blade type fuses and
the
> > location moved to the side of the bike so it can be accessed
without
> > removing side panels and seat. This now seems like a very good
idea.
> > > > If I rule out the fuses, what specifically in the switch should I > > look for? I'm guessing that as soon as I open it up about 13,000 > > small springs and things are going to fly to the four corners of
my
> > basement. The high-low beam switch is the one I'm guessing
they're
> > talking about. It appears to be functioning correctly. > > > > Thanks for any ideas. If anyone has been through this I'd like to
hear
> > about it. > > > > Best, > > > > Tom V > > A13 > > > > > > ===== > > ========================================================= > > Tom Vervaeke, Colorado, USA |Email: tom_vervaeke@y... > > '99 Kawasaki KLR-650, 5.0K |Ph: 719-495-2152 (home) > > '96 BMW R1100GS, Black 61.5K|Ph: 719-590-2133 (work) > > Colorado DualSporters Group |Ph: 719-650-4578 (cell/riding) > > Try: http://www.egroups.com/group/Colorado-Dualsporters > ========================================================= > >

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