[dsn_klr650] outrunnin' the military

[Toby Lampson]

Justin Painter wrote:

> I recently purchased a A4 w/8K miles and after I changed the oil it has had > a oil leak out the drain plug. I drained the oil back out, and went to my > local Kawa dealer and asked for a new drain plug grommet. The guy looked it > up and gave me a little O-Ring. I went home, and put the thing back > together with the new O-Ring and it still leaks. After searching the > Archives a bit I notice there is something called a "Crush washer" made of > aluminum. I don't think I have one, or at least if I did it fell into the > old oil during the first change and I don't have it anymore. Do the O-Ring > and the Crush washer work in tandem or did the jerk at the Kawa shop (who > was irritated I was interrupting his sandwich to begin with) give me the > wrong thing? > > Justin Painter

Although eh haven't heard of these washers being used in tandem...... I don't see why not. The little rubber o-ring shoulda done it. This would que me to look closer. I'd back it out enough to clean it. Slap some silly cone in there( in tandem)and cinch er back down. When my new o-ring and crush washer came from Fred I'd take out the whole mess again, clean it good, inspect for fractures in the vicinity where the bolt threads in, and the bolts head area..... ......repair as/if necessary........install the new goods....... Oh might wanna go with one a those hi-tech 'magnetic' drain plugs while your at it. I smacked my drain plug on a rock once......bullseye! Appeared to angle the whole drain situation back some. Still seals, no kracks, whew! G'luck Slide

[Jeff Walker]

> > Justin Painter wrote: > > > I recently purchased a A4 w/8K miles and after I changed the oil it has

had

> > a oil leak out the drain plug. I drained the oil back out, and went to

my

> > local Kawa dealer and asked for a new drain plug grommet. The guy

looked it

> > up and gave me a little O-Ring. I went home, and put the thing back > > together with the new O-Ring and it still leaks. After searching the > > Archives a bit I notice there is something called a "Crush washer" made

of

> > aluminum. I don't think I have one, or at least if I did it fell into

the

> > old oil during the first change and I don't have it anymore. Do the

O-Ring

> > and the Crush washer work in tandem or did the jerk at the Kawa shop

(who

> > was irritated I was interrupting his sandwich to begin with) give me the > > wrong thing? > > > > Justin Painter > > Although eh haven't heard of these washers being used in tandem...... > I don't see why not. > > The little rubber o-ring shoulda done it. > > This would que me to look closer. I'd back it out enough to clean > it. Slap some silly cone in there( in tandem)and cinch er back down. > > When my new o-ring and crush washer came from Fred I'd take > out the whole mess again, clean it good, inspect for fractures in > the vicinity where the bolt threads in, and the bolts head area..... > ......repair as/if necessary........install the new goods....... > > Oh might wanna go with one a those hi-tech 'magnetic' > drain plugs while your at it. > > I smacked my drain plug on a rock once......bullseye! > Appeared to angle the whole drain situation back some. > Still seals, no kracks, whew! >

My oil drain plug leaks with a new crush washer, fiber washer, rubber washer, o-ring, you name it. The previous owner gouged the sealing surface with a screwdriver blade. I have resorted to using a smidge of RTV sealant on the threads of the oil drain plug near the head of the bolt, and it doesn't leak anymore, while still being able to remove the plug and not causing a mess. Jeff

[Jdfsau3@aol.com]

Attachments :

Here is a plumber's tip for making an oil drain plug leak proof. Go to your local hardware store and get a roll of plumber's teflon tape. Then simply wrap (counterclockwise) the treads before reinstalling. Teflon tape seems to work just as well as or better than any of the commercial paste type sealants and is far less messy. If you really want to make the plug seriously leak resistant, try Rectorseal which is used on commerical gain lines. John F.

[Tom Simpson]

Tumu Rock wrote:

> On Thu, 22 Jun 2000 13:22:03 -0700, Jeffrey L. Walker wrote: > > Just keep an eye out for base security. They don't care too much for > motorcycles in that area. A KLR can out run those lame diesel Blazers and > Hummers anyway. > > > > Gino > > > > It can't outrun a radio though, and unlike the CHP the military police > have absolutely no sense of humor.......I've ridden on numerous military > facilities. > > That reminds me of a time in high school when I was "parking" with my > girlfriend in a woodsy area at Ft. Sam Houston in San Antonio, TX. We were > lying in the back of my Datsun 510 hatchback with the hatch open and staring > at the stars when our view was blocked by 3 hueys. Never a saw a half naked > teen drive more scared (or faster) than I did trying to outrun 3 > helicopters! Got off base and they ended the pursuit, thankfully.

I have heard more than one story of playing tag with the MPs out at Ft. Jackson...all pines and sand, with fire breakes running this way and that. Some of the better ones came from my father...were you aware that a Puch/Allstate "twingle" can in fact outrun multiple M151 jeeps in deep sand? Its true, its true... -Tom

[Jeffrey L. Walker]

> Here is a plumber's tip for making an oil drain plug leak proof. Go to

your

> local hardware store and get a roll of plumber's teflon tape. Then simply > wrap (counterclockwise) the treads before reinstalling. Teflon tape seems

to

> work just as well as or better than any of the commercial paste type

sealants

> and is far less messy. If you really want to make the plug seriously leak > resistant, try Rectorseal which is used on commerical gain lines. >

I thought about it, but I didn't think that it would hold up to the high engine temperatures. Jeff