stage ii+ (this will take a while for slower connections sorry)

[Dash Weeks]

Attachments :You want pics then you'll get pics.... I'll try to do one or two per post so I don't crash machines due to my thoughlessness. I don't know how to put them in the elist pics page, or whatever, so if someone is so inclined then please feel free to put them there for me. OK so, I'm barely awake as last night was the third night in a row for 2:30AM bed time. Mrs. Dash is on vacation with the kids and Daddy is left to his own devices or de-vicing perhaps. I want my bike to be able to ride so bad right now, you can all just imagine my anticipation. Without further ado.... This is Stage II+, as I passed my expected Stage II completion goals. Well Partly. Stage II was supposed to be a truing operation for my wheels, then mount some skins, then balance them skins and then proceed. It didn't occur as planned. I trued the rear wheel in two different nights. It is easy contrary to popular mis-conception. I posted a bit ago about my trials with that so check the archives from more on that. The rear wheel is very true, a mounted rear tire will never, ever be as true as this. Earlier I posted that I was going to 45 in# on the spokes. I changed them all to an even 50 in#. I used a 6mm open/box end wrench on a torque wrench with a 6mm hex bit, I converted the 50 in# to 34in# on the wrench to compensate for the offset. Calculate as follows (Td*L)/(L+Lo)=Ti, that is torque desired (Td) multiplied by the length of the torque wrench (L) all divided by the length of the torque wrench (L) plus the length of the offset (Lo) and that equals the torque indicated (Ti) or setting for your clicker type torque wrench. The length of the torque wrench (L) is measured from the center of the square socket drive to the center of the handle. The length of the offset is measured from the center of the square socket drive to the center of the spoke nipple (center of the open end wrench). OK enough arithmetic... so the wheel is true. Oh yeah I mounted my new SunStar 43 tooth Sproket and my rotors were carefully re-conditioned as well. The rear wheel had a new drive bumper inside (I don't know what it is really called) but that bumper needs some work as it won't allow the sprocket to run true yet. Next was to true the front wheel. Well if you remember Stage One it didn't include forks. I needed forks. So I installed my Triple Clamps and then my forks. Forks by the way have Progressive springs, a custom machined spacer (by yours truly) 15wt fork oil @ 190 mm from the top. I put on my Over-sized boots and slid the forks up the clamps. Tightened to spec on the top, the bottom is tight but not to spec. I mis-placed two of the 8X45mm flanged bolts, thanks Steve for getting those out to me. I'll find them after they arrive, I'll bet. OK so I installed the front wheel and tightened it up. Began truing up the wheel and found it to be pretty close. Truing, Truing, truing.... Ok so now it's true I need to torque the nipples to 50 in#. Torquing, Torquing, Torquing, SNAP, AWE DARN, SHOOT, FUDGE (I used much better expletives) I snapped a spoke in the nipple. Buchanan's was very nice about it. See my earlier post of 6/22 buried in the D606 post, for more info. OK, so I can't true it, so I can't mount a skin and I can't balance it... Stage II is on hold and now comes the plus. I put on the handle bars so that I could make VROOM VROOM sounds... Great Therapy! Then I put on the Rear Sub-Frame. Then installed the rear brake cylinder mounting bracket and subsequently the rear brake pedal. Mind you that everything, and I mean everything has been cleaned, examined, and bead-blasted/painted/greased or whatever was necessary. All my fasteners are torqued to spec and verified, and I also use Loc-tite. I didn't drop the 5% for lubrication. Actually the co-efficient of friction for steel on steel decreases by roughly 1/2 when lubrication is used. Meaning that 50% of the torque applied is required for the same tensile loading, I don't recommend dropping it by 50% but that's what the Fastener Torque calculations yield. It won't hurt anything in most cases to use the spec, with loc-tite applied. Then I installed the foot peg mounts and then my IMS Flightline footpegs. Next was the rear brake cylinder. Installed new White Brothers pads in the rear. Installed a Russel Speed Bleeder, but I don't like it, it sticks up to far. They need to make those shorter. I then glued on the frame bumpers, those strategically placed rubber vibration mitigation devices are not specifically placed per the manual or parts diagram. I bit of guessing and looking at Daryl's bike gave me a good placement strategy. Then I was thinking, go to bed and get some very badly needed sleep or clean and re-build the Carb. Carb won.... Installed a 150 main, stock pilot, DynoJet needle on the third from top, set the idle mixture screw to 2.5 turns out. Cleaned everything, made sure everything was sliding when they were supposed to slide and didn't move with they weren't. Good thing. Got that installed and by that time I had test driven Daryl's bike about 10 times had about 2 liters of Coke in me and chucked down 2 snickers bars. Then it was time for Air box work. I de-greased it thoroughly with engine de-greaser, then I bored 6 1" holes in the top and sides of the box, installed my 6 UNI pre-filters and used RTV to seal them in place. I removed the screen as well. I was getting ready to install it and discovered that I need to swing the sub-frame out of the way. NOPE time for bed. G'Night. That's it for tonight. Here are some pics... Enjoy. The wire ties up by the triple clamp are keeping my forks from flopping to one side. After I get my front wheel trued I have to do an alignment check. LaterZ Dash