--- In DSN_klr650@egroups.com, RM wrote: > > On Mon, 15 May 2000, John Laybolt wrote: > > >Has anyone replaced shims and buttoned everything up without a torque > >wrench? I really can't wait the 2+ weeks for mine to get here. I'm > >leaving for Alaska in 4 weeks and still have to finish my break in. > >Currently disabled at 800KM. > > Speaking of torque wrenches - Just how good are the lower cost ($40 to > $80) wrenches? I've heard people say that only the professional quality > (like Snap-On) wrenches are any good. Any truth? > > RM
[dsn_klr650] valve shim change
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- Joined: Sat May 06, 2000 3:40 pm
[dsn_klr650] valve shim change
The Beam style tourque wrenches work just fine. I have a craftsman
(liftime replaceable :^D ) that I think I picked up for around $30 US.
Break away wrenches (i.e. the kind on which you dial up a spec. and
it
makes a snapping sound and breaks free when you reach that value)
are
much quicker and convenient, especially if you use it A LOT, but over
time they need calibrating to stay accurate. I'm not sure how long
this takes, but anyway, I prefer the K.I.S.S. principle.
If you don't use it alot, like me, the beam type is simple, cheap,
and
functional enough. Unless you're so anal that eyeballing the marks
and only getting within 2 ftlbs error (mine is marked in 2.5 ft*lbs
and 10 Newton*Meter increments) of the value is gonna drive you nuts.
I've heard it said that the US designs aircraft to be repaired with a
scalpel and the Russians designed planes to be repaired with a sledge
hammer. Budget and philosophy determine which works for you.
Kevin B.
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