Wilsons Sandbox

Attachments :Here's where it starts gett'n interest'n. I've made this part for
years and need a print out copy on the new system. If I can find it in
an old e-mail I'll attach a copy of a scanned print. But here we go.

Open up a dwg in inches, A4 portrait, 3 decimal. I use pen #2. Get
the scale close to 100%. [See below --- I know how now] RENAME it if
you got it from a stored file.
1st select Lines [any] the groups didn't work right for me in a few
other modes.

Note: You can also set the basic point by click'n in the co-ord box &
follow'n the prompts.

Drag the x-hairs to the lower right corner. Hit command -G to open up
the symbols dialog. Open yer symbols lib. and move 'em to the left to
yer work'n dwg. Hit OK.

Command-J brings up the list dialog. Hit delete [unless it's set on 1"
C/L] then return for the symbols. Select 1" C/L.

The prompt will ask for co-ords. Enter -1.460, 1.650 & return. Next
it will ask for the scaling factors. Enter 0, 2.875,3.300. Hit return.
Ta-Da! A set of scaled C/L's should appear.

Next insert the group for the lr cor Zero Cor. That's the one for top
left rotated. Try a symbol scale factor of .6 (x&y) and a rotation of
180°. Put it @ Ø/Ø. If you like this, great, if no, there are several
way to redo. Command-Z is pbly the easiest [back up and redo].

Since we're into groups, let's put in a couple of tapped holes.
Command -J again. Select 1" tapped hole. Enter -.322, 2.953 as the
co-ords. Rotation is 0 and the scales are .25. Viola!. The other
hole goes 2.606 lower. Command-J and return, the last symbol should
still be selected. Now, on the far right end of the prompt line is a
down pointing select arrow. Hit it. This brings up the last entries
you put in the prompts. Select the last co-ords, they will appear in
the prompts. Change the Y value to .347 and hit return. Go back to
the arrow and select the last scale factors. Hit return. If all went
well, you now have 4 symbols on the dwg.

I did the center circles next. Select Auto Entry mode, far right box
under prompts. Select Circle->Ctr & Rad [right hand click button].
Draw 2 circles, rad. 1.140" & .940".

Change to line style 2, dashed, and draw another circle of 1.062" rad.
Graphic-> apply style, or 2nd left box below prompt, tool pallet pen
change. Follow the prompt.

Now let's do the outlines. Select Line->angle. Draw a line from Ø/Ø
3.300 straight up: select start w/ mouse in auto & enter 90, 3.3.
Continue w/ a line @ 180° & 2.5. Select Line->parallel & draw a line
3.3 below the top horz line.

Another way to draw a rectangle is Special->rounded rect. Select any
corner and enter length/width, either + or -. In this case, start @
Ø/Ø, set #'s to -2.875 & 3.300. Set cor rad @ Ø. Hit return.

Select Arc-> 3 points. The 3 points are -1.86,0; -2.875,1.650; &
-1.860, 3.300. I don't think it matters what order. And the last
point can be pulled back from the bottom prompt entry list [arrow on
right] & edited. For start & finish angles, select 90, 270. Doesn't
matter, the trim will close the figure.

Select Trim->split. Click the top line & then the left side of the
arc. Hit escape. Click the bottom line & then the arc again. Hit
escape. Click the arc. and then the tag ends of the top & btm lines.
Select Trim->trim and get rid of the 4 tag ends.

Now come the 2 island on the right. Draw a parallel line .760 to the
left of the right side. Line-> parallel. Draw an arc w/ a ctr @ the
C/L x-hairs of 1.388 rad from angle 270 to 90. Split the .760 vert
line on the arc. Trim the arc and the ctr of the line. Trim->split &
Trim->trim.

Draw a line from x=-.405, y=.749 to x=0 y=.892. Line->point to point.
Select Transform->mirror, follow prompts. Use the horz. C/L as the
mirror axis. Split & trim the center of the arc.

Select Trim->fillet. Select the top left line of the island, select
right side of top line, select .15 as rad,. Repeat on other island.

In case yer wonder'n, the "N" in the top right small menu is a redraw
button, same as F12. The top symbol is "save".

=====================================

Now to do the elevation view:

Shrink the dwg to about 50%, minus bar in top right menu. Move dwg up
so ya got room below for the next view;
Transform->move by dx, dy. Say x=0 y=4 Draw a rect w/ low rt cor @
0,0 1.325 high & 2.875 wide. Place a Ø/Ø symbol on the left lower cor.
Command-J, R zero cor, 180,.6,.6

Draw and extend a Vert C/L in the rect. Draw a vert line 1.137 to the
left of ctr. draw a line .565 parallel from the btm
===============

Line extensions!! select free mode and then set a point to trim to
Trim->trim, set point select line. I knew there hadta be an easy way.

New trick! To get back to any scale click in the scale factor, top
right, and enter the desired scale factor in the prompt line!
======================

Draw parallel line .940 left of C/L. Trim this line btw the top and
.565 line. Trim the .565 line @ the C/L. Draw a vert line 1.137 left
of the C/L & trim the 1.137/.565 cor. This describes the inside of the
bore.

Draw a horz C/L .350 up from the btm thru the wall of the part. Extend
as desired. This is the place where the 1/4-20 clamp bolts go. Split
the vert o/s line at the intersection. Trim->split.

In auto mode Line-> angle using this as a start go .5 or so down -75°.
Trim this line @ the btm. we're look'n for a 15° bevel here. Mirror
this line about the .350 C/L. Delete the rest of the left side
vertical line.

Draw parallel lines to the btm @ .700 & 1.0, draw parallels to vert C/L
@ 1.062 & 1.140. Trim lines to make a notch in the wall.

Draw a parallel line on the left 1.225 up from the bottom trimmed @ the
C/L and 1.140 line. Chamfer the top left cor. Trim->chamfer, enter
.05, 45, and 2 @ the prompt. In the 3rd place 0 means no trim, 1 means
trim 1st line & 2 means trim both.

Now on the right: Draw a vert parallel line 1.0 left of right edge.
Draw horz line .700 up from btm. Trim the right side so the island
stands up on right. Select Line->angle and draw a line down to the
left from x=0, y=.559, @ -60°, .6. Trim the corner off [fender
clearance]

Select command-E & 1/4 tapped hole. Paste it @ x=-.322, y=.325. These
are the x-bar holes.

Enuf for the day M'be 2mrw we'll work w/ section lines, Hatching, and
then dimensions. Whew!

At 2005-04-26 12:16 -0700 tkat@tkat.com wrote:

>Draw parallel lines to the btm @ .700 & 1.0, draw parallels to vert C/L
>@ 1.062 & 1.140. Trim lines to make a notch in the wall.

Tkat - I think the second of the above dimensions
should be 0.85" instead of 1".

>Now on the right: Draw a vert parallel line 1.0 left of right edge.

I think this should be 0.76", not 1". I found it
just as handy to extend the line of the island
from the plan view above and then split & trim as
necessary. that's the way I'd have done it back
in the days of pencil & paper, anyway.

>Select Line->angle and draw a line down to the
>left from x=0, y=.559, @ -60°, .6.

The angle here should be -120 not -60.

>Select command-E & 1/4 tapped hole. Paste it @ x=-.322, y=.325. These
>are the x-bar holes.

The way this turned out on my drawing made me go
back and check your posting on symbols. I now see
that you have made your symbol catch point the
_bottom_ of the tapped hole; I didn't notice that
and thought the top was the more intuitive place.
I'm sticking with that, and just need to change
my y co-ordinate to 1.325" to get it in the right
place.

Sorry if I seem to be over-picky - but if we're
trying to get the documentation more
user-friendly, then it needs to be as right as
possible!

regards

Rowland
--
| Wilma & Rowland Carson
| ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...

On May 10, 2005, at 9:16 AM, Rowland Carson wrote:

>
> Tkat - I think the second of the above dimensions
> should be 0.85" instead of 1".

You're correct for the dwg. My bad. The new dwg is an up grade that
had to incorporate when I found a wider slot in some later model forks.

>
> >Now on the right:  Draw a vert parallel line 1.0 left of right edge.
>
> I think this should be 0.76", not 1". I found it
> just as handy to extend the line of the island
> from the plan view above and then split & trim as
> necessary. that's the way I'd have done it back
> in the days of pencil & paper, anyway.

I was just starting. I'd have to go back & check. As my Wise Ol'
G'pappy said, "There's lots of ways to get to New York."

>
> >Select Line->angle and draw a line down to the
> >left from x=0, y=.559, @ -60°, .6.
>
> The angle here should be -120 not -60.

Correct. I misplaced the "-". Should be 60°, -.6

>
> >Select command-E & 1/4 tapped hole.  Paste it @ x=-.322, y=.325. 
> These
> >are the x-bar holes.
>
> The way this turned out on my drawing made me go
> back and check your posting on symbols. I now see
> that you have made your symbol catch point the
> _bottom_ of the tapped hole;

I prefer the btm as one generally knows the depth of a blind hole and
it's easier to prune the top lines

> Sorry if I seem to be over-picky - but if we're
> trying to get the documentation more
> user-friendly, then it needs to be as right as
> possible!

Absolutely!! Thanks for the close-up scrutiny.

>
>

Tkat


For every action, there is an equal and opposite government program.

At 2005-05-10 14:39 -0700 tkat@tkat.com wrote:

>I prefer the btm as one generally knows the depth of a blind hole and
>it's easier to prune the top lines

Tkat - of course, that is much more sensible - I was working on the
assumption of creating a separate symbol for every length of tapped
hole.

However, you have to remember always to insert & explode if you want
to trim it - it appears you can't trim bits off symbols that are
inserted without exploding.

Thinking on some more, I suppose that using appropriate scaling
factors when inserting the symbol one could use a single symbol to
represent any diameter & length of tapped hole.

regards

Rowland
--
| Wilma & Rowland Carson
| ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...

>
> However, you have to remember always to insert & explode if you want
> to trim it - it appears you can't trim bits off symbols that are
> inserted without exploding.

Absolutely. I just automatically punch cmd-J. I chose 1/4" as the
dia. as it's the most common in my world. 2nd option would be unity
for both length & Ø. Unity for the length makes scaling a snap.

And for the length of time I've been draw'n lines, I know the scale
factors btw the rest of the common thds & 1/4-20's.

>
> Thinking on some more, I suppose that using appropriate scaling
> factors when inserting the symbol one could use a single symbol to
> represent any diameter & length of tapped hole.
>

Hummmmmm...........I like yer thot. If the design calls for 1/4-20 x
.75 holes, could the scale factor for the symbol be entered as
(x),1,.75? Then moving the grab point to the top would be the most
logical. Given a break, I'll have to play w/ it.

Tkat

"If money doesn't grow on trees, why do banks have branches?"