Re: Power supply ground

deroseje
Posts: 313
Joined: Fri May 24, 2013 1:51 pm

Re: Power supply ground

Post by deroseje » Thu Dec 03, 2015 7:08 pm

Attachments :Bob's trying to kill me, LOL!!!

This is probably a stupid question, but here goes.  The neon is blinking when no sound file is playing because some sort of soundless pulse is traveling down the + speaker wire, to the music interface and causing the interface to ignite the neon, right?  So is there any kind of filtering device that could be placed on the + speaker out of the CF4 unit, eliminating this phantom pulse, but allowing the sound pulses through?

Sent from my iPad
------ Original Message ------

From: Bob Darlington rdarlington@gmail.com [B9Builders]
To: B9 Robots Builders Club
Sent: December 3, 2015 at 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Power supply ground
 
HV = High Voltage, yah. 
I think the output of those tec22 modules is about 8000 volts, but don't remember for sure.  And by across, I mean right across the two wires going to the neon, or even better from one to ground.  If you use a tiny 1/4 watt resistor, it will lead a brief but spectacular existence before exploding violently and hurting you or the glass.  We're looking at 5-10 watts here at this guessed voltage and I'm sure that little transformer will melt down trying to supply that much power.
Perhaps we best explore other options before this one!
-Bob
On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 3:01 PM, jeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders] wrote:
 
Thanks Bob, but please remember who you're talking to.  I'll need a bit of clarity.

HV = High voltage, right?  So would you be referring to the cables coming from the neon transformer and connected to the neon?

When you say "Install across", what is that process?

Thanks again!

Jeff-

Sent from my iPad
------ Original Message ------

From: Bob Darlington rdarlington@gmail.com [B9Builders]
To: B9 Robots Builders Club
Sent: December 3, 2015 at 12:44 PM
Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Power supply ground
 
Any chance it's static?  You may want to try installing a 10 meg resistor across  the HV terminals (that's 6.4 watts at 8000 volts so size it appropriately).
-Bob
On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 12:38 PM, jeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders] wrote:
 
  Thanks to you Dave and Gary for the great advice. Please never feel like you'll insult me with elementary/rudimentary advice. In fact, if you could please incorporate hand puppets into the lesson, I believe I'd better retain the info..... ;-) I checked the AC wiring into the power supply and I was already, indeed, using the 3rd ground input and it was already wired to the FG on the supply. I had merely forgotten that I had. I apologize for shouting out a problem that didn't actually exist. That said, his neon still randomly blinks when it shouldn't. To answer your question Dave, yes, all neon flashes (whether accompanied with a voice file or random flashes without voice files) used to also be accompanied by a hum, but I installed an audio isolator along the line level RCA connection feeding the voice from the CF4 to the amp that actually plays the files through the speaker. This fixed the hum, but did not fix the flashing. I'd assume that this is because the isolator is not incorporated in a place that is "up stream" from the neon trigger signal. Compared to you all, my wiring is relatively simple (like its owner ;-). In a nutshell:
  • I'm using all 3 dc outputs (six wires..3 sets of 2 red/black) coming from the powersupply (don't know why, just seemed like the right thing to do). They feed into a 6 prong molex connector which then feeds the 6 wires to the torso from the waist plate.
  • I then feed these into a terminal bank which separates these feeds to supply power to 3 functions of the robot (1) Lights, (2) motors (currently just his ears) and (3) neon and audio. Again, I broke things up this way only because it made sense to me to have a separate feed (although coming from the same PS) for each of these areas.
  • Once main power is switched on at the tread, the lights and motors are turned on using two of the programming bay swithes.
  • The main neon and audio power are not switched in the programming bay. Instead, they are directly powered when I turn on the main switch on his treads. Yet he won’t begin speaking until I throw the 3rd bay switch which is connected to the CF4 contact 24.
I hope this gives enough info.   Thanks!      
From: "David Schulpius dschulpius@wi.rr.com [B9Builders]"
To: "Tobor001@aol.com [B9Builders]"
Sent: Thursday, December 3, 2015 9:44:38 AM
Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Power supply ground

  You may already know a lot of what I have to say in the following paragraphs. If so please forgive and know I'm writing this also for the newer builders who have little electrical knowledge. Basic electrical theory is really pretty easy to understand and implement. It just takes a little study and dedication to understanding it. There is a ton of free and easy to read and watch stuff on the internet and youtube. 
Gary's advices is good and should be followed regardless if it solves your problem or not. Worst case is it doesn't change anything. Best case is your robot does not burn to the ground along with your house if there is a wiring problem or component failure. No lie. Yes I'm trying to get people's attention. 
If it does not solve your problem I have a good feeling that what you're experiencing is electronic noise from something deep inside your robot. Usually you can hear it through the speakers. Do you hear a click through the speakers when the neon flashes? You may or may not. In your case and our robots this type of interference travels along the common neutrals of the DC devices connected to your power supply. You could drive yourself crazy trying to find where it's coming from because of the complexity of these B9's and all the different devices working together. One way would be to completely detach one unit at a time to see what is causing the problem and when found place an inline noise filter between that device and the power supply. Another way would be to try to run all your power lines a good distance from your signal and control lines. Sometimes that difficult to do. You may never be able to find where the noise id coming from or it's cause. The way I decided to eliminate this problem was to add a second power supply and run my sound system and neon system from it (these two systems must work together). I did not run any common neutrals between the any of my power supplies on the DC side. This stopped any electronic noise coming through my speakers and stopped any random flashing of my neon.  
BTW, on the AC side of power supplys all neutrals and field grounds are naturally connected. You can daisy chain your AC side connections from one PS to the other. Make sure you have properly sized wire. The good news is that amp draw is much lower on the AC side then the DC side of the PS. My unprofessional rule of thumb (which is not exact science, just gut experience) is that my much lower DC voltage (12 & 5 vdc) will pull 3/4 more amps as what is on my mush higher AC feed (120 vac) side of the PS. There are a math equations and tools all over the internet to figure this out if you want to really know what it is. For example I have a 6 amp main fuse coming into my robot on the AC side. I pull 30 or more amps (right now. More in the future) through the AC-DC power converters on their DC side and have never blown that 6 amp main AC fuse. It's important to know what amperage is and how it relates and affects your power circuit designs. I can't stress that enough. Voltage and amperage are not the same.
Hope this helps someone.  Dave Schulpius  
On Wed, Dec 2, 2015 at 11:55 PM, jeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders] wrote:
 


Hi y'all,


Last we viewed Jeff's world of inept B9 building, I had finally worked through most of my neon bugs. He's been rambling away, entertaining guests and generally driving my wife crazy. So far, so good.   However, I'm still dealing with sporadic neon flashes between his comments. I now have another thought about its cause, but wanted to bounce it off you before I go through the effort of taking the big guy apart foe the jillionth time. 


I'm using the Meanwell 320-12 power supply to power everything in my build. Yet I just realized that I have not done anything with the FG GROUND connection that sits next to the AC/L and AC/N inputs.  Could this be causing the random neon flashing when no voice files are playing?  Should I have connected this to the steal treads or some other place?


Sign me Jeff (how have I not electrocuted myself?) DeRose



Paul
Posts: 150
Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2014 6:30 am

Re: Power supply ground

Post by Paul » Thu Dec 03, 2015 9:00 pm

Hi all,
Regarding the random triggering of the Neon - I would try a bypass capacitor across the audio terminals of the neon device...
This could also be tried on other AUDIO signal lines associated - the interference could be picked up anywhere in the audio chain.
The idea is to shunt to ground, any energy that is higher in frequency than the desired audio - say about 3khz is enough to get a good visual representation of most music & speech. There is some maths behind it - capacitive reactance at various frequencies, in association with the input impedance of the Neon circuit.
Easier to experiment with values - bear in mind that the higher the value, the less bass sound will get through.
From experience, I would start with a 1uF 36volt or so Electrolytic Capacitor and see the result. You may need a bit more volume. If it all stops, its letting too much through - so try a smaller one - say 100nF Greencap, or even into a ceramic cap of about 100pf.
"Danger Danger Will Robinson" ... Do NOT put this on the HV output connections - at best an explosion and lots of smoke!

Hope that helps. Good Luck!

On 4/12/2015 11:08 AM, jeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders] wrote:

Bob's trying to kill me, LOL!!!

This is probably a stupid question, but here goes. The neon is blinking when no sound file is playing because some sort of soundless pulse is traveling down the + speaker wire, to the music interface and causing the interface to ignite the neon, right? So is there any kind of filtering device that could be placed on the + speaker out of the CF4 unit, eliminating this phantom pulse, but allowing the sound pulses through?

Sent from my iPad
------ Original Message ------

From: Bob Darlington rdarlington@gmail.com [B9Builders]
To: B9 Robots Builders Club
Sent: December 3, 2015 at 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Power supply ground
HV = High Voltage, yah.
I think the output of those tec22 modules is about 8000 volts, but don't remember for sure. And by across, I mean right across the two wires going to the neon, or even better from one to ground. If you use a tiny 1/4 watt resistor, it will lead a brief but spectacular existence before exploding violently and hurting you or the glass. We're looking at 5-10 watts here at this guessed voltage and I'm sure that little transformer will melt down trying to supply that much power.
Perhaps we best explore other options before this one!
-Bob
On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 3:01 PM, jeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders] wrote:

Thanks Bob, but please remember who you're talking to. I'll need a bit of clarity.

HV = High voltage, right? So would you be referring to the cables coming from the neon transformer and connected to the neon?

When you say "Install across", what is that process?

Thanks again!

Jeff-

Sent from my iPad
------ Original Message ------

From: Bob Darlington rdarlington@gmail.com [B9Builders]
To: B9 Robots Builders Club
Sent: December 3, 2015 at 12:44 PM
Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Power supply ground
Any chance it's static? You may want to try installing a 10 meg resistor across the HV terminals (that's 6.4 watts at 8000 volts so size it appropriately).
-Bob
On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 12:38 PM, jeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders] wrote:
Thanks to you Dave and Gary for the great advice. Please never feel like you'll insult me with elementary/rudimentary advice. In fact, if you could please incorporate hand puppets into the lesson, I believe I'd better retain the info..... ;-) I checked the AC wiring into the power supply and I was already, indeed, using the 3rd ground input and it was already wired to the FG on the supply. I had merely forgotten that I had. I apologize for shouting out a problem that didn't actually exist. That said, his neon still randomly blinks when it shouldn't. To answer your question Dave, yes, all neon flashes (whether accompanied with a voice file or random flashes without voice files) used to also be accompanied by a hum, but I installed an audio isolator along the line level RCA connection feeding the voice from the CF4 to the amp that actually plays the files through the speaker. This fixed the hum, but did not fix the flashing. I'd assume that this is because the isolator is not incorporated in a place that is "up stream" from the neon trigger signal. Compared to you all, my wiring is relatively simple (like its owner ;-). In a nutshell:
  • I'm using all 3 dc outputs (six wires..3 sets of 2 red/black) coming from the powersupply (don't know why, just seemed like the right thing to do). They feed into a 6 prong molex connector which then feeds the 6 wires to the torso from the waist plate.
  • I then feed these into a terminal bank which separates these feeds to supply power to 3 functions of the robot (1) Lights, (2) motors (currently just his ears) and (3) neon and audio. Again, I broke things up this way only because it made sense to me to have a separate feed (although coming from the same PS) for each of these areas.
  • Once main power is switched on at the tread, the lights and motors are turned on using two of the programming bay swithes.
  • The main neon and audio power are not switched in the programming bay. Instead, they are directly powered when I turn on the main switch on his treads. Yet he won t begin speaking until I throw the 3rd bay switch which is connected to the CF4 contact 24.
I hope this gives enough info. Thanks!
From: "David Schulpius dschulpius@wi.rr.com [B9Builders]"
To: "Tobor001@aol.com [B9Builders]"
Sent: Thursday, December 3, 2015 9:44:38 AM
Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Power supply ground

You may already know a lot of what I have to say in the following paragraphs. If so please forgive and know I'm writing this also for the newer builders who have little electrical knowledge. Basic electrical theory is really pretty easy to understand and implement. It just takes a little study and dedication to understanding it. There is a ton of free and easy to read and watch stuff on the internet and youtube.
Gary's advices is good and should be followed regardless if it solves your problem or not. Worst case is it doesn't change anything. Best case is your robot does not burn to the ground along with your house if there is a wiring problem or component failure. No lie. Yes I'm trying to get people's attention.
If it does not solve your problem I have a good feeling that what you're experiencing is electronic noise from something deep inside your robot. Usually you can hear it through the speakers. Do you hear a click through the speakers when the neon flashes? You may or may not. In your case and our robots this type of interference travels along the common neutrals of the DC devices connected to your power supply. You could drive yourself crazy trying to find where it's coming from because of the complexity of these B9's and all the different devices working together. One way would be to completely detach one unit at a time to see what is causing the problem and when found place an inline noise filter between that device and the power supply. Another way would be to try to run all your power lines a good distance from your signal and control lines. Sometimes that difficult to do. You may never be able to find where the noise id coming from or it's cause. The way I decided to eliminate this problem was to add a second power supply and run my sound system and neon system from it (these two systems must work together). I did not run any common neutrals between the any of my power supplies on the DC side. This stopped any electronic noise coming through my speakers and stopped any random flashing of my neon.
BTW, on the AC side of power supplys all neutrals and field grounds are naturally connected. You can daisy chain your AC side connections from one PS to the other. Make sure you have properly sized wire. The good news is that amp draw is much lower on the AC side then the DC side of the PS. My unprofessional rule of thumb (which is not exact science, just gut experience) is that my much lower DC voltage (12 & 5 vdc) will pull 3/4 more amps as what is on my mush higher AC feed (120 vac) side of the PS. There are a math equations and tools all over the internet to figure this out if you want to really know what it is. For example I have a 6 amp main fuse coming into my robot on the AC side. I pull 30 or more amps (right now. More in the future) through the AC-DC power converters on their DC side and have never blown that 6 amp main AC fuse. It's important to know what amperage is and how it relates and affects your power circuit designs. I can't stress that enough. Voltage and amperage are not the same.
Hope this helps someone. Dave Schulpius
On Wed, Dec 2, 2015 at 11:55 PM, jeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders] wrote:



Hi y'all,


Last we viewed Jeff's world of inept B9 building, I had finally worked through most of my neon bugs. He's been rambling away, entertaining guests and generally driving my wife crazy. So far, so good. However, I'm still dealing with sporadic neon flashes between his comments. I now have another thought about its cause, but wanted to bounce it off you before I go through the effort of taking the big guy apart foe the jillionth time.


I'm using the Meanwell 320-12 power supply to power everything in my build. Yet I just realized that I have not done anything with the FG GROUND connection that sits next to the AC/L and AC/N inputs. Could this be causing the random neon flashing when no voice files are playing? Should I have connected this to the steal treads or some other place?


Sign me Jeff (how have I not electrocuted myself?) DeRose



Jim Easley
Posts: 133
Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2008 9:08 pm

Re: Power supply ground

Post by Jim Easley » Thu Dec 03, 2015 9:02 pm

Jeff, You might try to turn down the input sensitivity and/or adjust the bass control to the neon. Some other advise...with audio and other static sensitive components it often helps to use a star grounding configuration when wiring. Basically all grounds are separate to each device and are connected to the main or technical ground. It is surprising how much noise a shared single run of wire can pickup. It goes without saying, all low level audio should be connected with fully shielded wire and routed away from high voltage devices or items that can emit radio frequency interference. In general, it is a good idea to have separate wiring looms for audio and other sensitive stuff.   Jim E   From: B9Builders@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 4:08 PM To: B9Builders@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Power supply ground    
Bob's trying to kill me, LOL!!!

This is probably a stupid question, but here goes.  The neon is blinking when no sound file is playing because some sort of soundless pulse is traveling down the + speaker wire, to the music interface and causing the interface to ignite the neon, right?  So is there any kind of filtering device that could be placed on the + speaker out of the CF4 unit, eliminating this phantom pulse, but allowing the sound pulses through?

Sent from my iPad
------ Original Message ------

From: Bob Darlington rdarlington@gmail.com [B9Builders]
To: B9 Robots Builders Club
Sent: December 3, 2015 at 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Power supply ground
 
HV = High Voltage, yah.    I think the output of those tec22 modules is about 8000 volts, but don't remember for sure.  And by across, I mean right across the two wires going to the neon, or even better from one to ground.  If you use a tiny 1/4 watt resistor, it will lead a brief but spectacular existence before exploding violently and hurting you or the glass.  We're looking at 5-10 watts here at this guessed voltage and I'm sure that little transformer will melt down trying to supply that much power.   Perhaps we best explore other options before this one!   -Bob   On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 3:01 PM, jeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders] wrote:
  Thanks Bob, but please remember who you're talking to.  I'll need a bit of clarity.

HV = High voltage, right?  So would you be referring to the cables coming from the neon transformer and connected to the neon?

When you say "Install across", what is that process?

Thanks again!

Jeff-

Sent from my iPad
------ Original Message ------

From: Bob Darlington rdarlington@gmail.com [B9Builders]
To: B9 Robots Builders Club
Sent: December 3, 2015 at 12:44 PM
Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Power supply ground
  Any chance it's static?  You may want to try installing a 10 meg resistor across  the HV terminals (that's 6.4 watts at 8000 volts so size it appropriately).   -Bob   On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 12:38 PM, jeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders] wrote:
    Thanks to you Dave and Gary for the great advice. Please never feel like you'll insult me with elementary/rudimentary advice. In fact, if you could please incorporate hand puppets into the lesson, I believe I'd better retain the info..... ;-) I checked the AC wiring into the power supply and I was already, indeed, using the 3rd ground input and it was already wired to the FG on the supply. I had merely forgotten that I had. I apologize for shouting out a problem that didn't actually exist. That said, his neon still randomly blinks when it shouldn't. To answer your question Dave, yes, all neon flashes (whether accompanied with a voice file or random flashes without voice files) used to also be accompanied by a hum, but I installed an audio isolator along the line level RCA connection feeding the voice from the CF4 to the amp that actually plays the files through the speaker. This fixed the hum, but did not fix the flashing. I'd assume that this is because the isolator is not incorporated in a place that is "up stream" from the neon trigger signal. Compared to you all, my wiring is relatively simple (like its owner ;-). In a nutshell:
  • I'm using all 3 dc outputs (six wires..3 sets of 2 red/black) coming from the powersupply (don't know why, just seemed like the right thing to do). They feed into a 6 prong molex connector which then feeds the 6 wires to the torso from the waist plate. I then feed these into a terminal bank which separates these feeds to supply power to 3 functions of the robot (1) Lights, (2) motors (currently just his ears) and (3) neon and audio. Again, I broke things up this way only because it made sense to me to have a separate feed (although coming from the same PS) for each of these areas. Once main power is switched on at the tread, the lights and motors are turned on using two of the programming bay swithes. The main neon and audio power are not switched in the programming bay. Instead, they are directly powered when I turn on the main switch on his treads. Yet he won t begin speaking until I throw the 3rd bay switch which is connected to the CF4 contact 24.
I hope this gives enough info.   Thanks!         From: "David Schulpius dschulpius@wi.rr.com [B9Builders]"
To: "Tobor001@aol.com [B9Builders]"
Sent: Thursday, December 3, 2015 9:44:38 AM
Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Power supply ground
   You may already know a lot of what I have to say in the following paragraphs. If so please forgive and know I'm writing this also for the newer builders who have little electrical knowledge. Basic electrical theory is really pretty easy to understand and implement. It just takes a little study and dedication to understanding it. There is a ton of free and easy to read and watch stuff on the internet and youtube.   Gary's advices is good and should be followed regardless if it solves your problem or not. Worst case is it doesn't change anything. Best case is your robot does not burn to the ground along with your house if there is a wiring problem or component failure. No lie. Yes I'm trying to get people's attention.   If it does not solve your problem I have a good feeling that what you're experiencing is electronic noise from something deep inside your robot. Usually you can hear it through the speakers. Do you hear a click through the speakers when the neon flashes? You may or may not. In your case and our robots this type of interference travels along the common neutrals of the DC devices connected to your power supply. You could drive yourself crazy trying to find where it's coming from because of the complexity of these B9's and all the different devices working together. One way would be to completely detach one unit at a time to see what is causing the problem and when found place an inline noise filter between that device and the power supply. Another way would be to try to run all your power lines a good distance from your signal and control lines. Sometimes that difficult to do. You may never be able to find where the noise id coming from or it's cause. The way I decided to eliminate this problem was to add a second power supply and run my sound system and neon system from it (these two systems must work together). I did not run any common neutrals between the any of my power supplies on the DC side. This stopped any electronic noise coming through my speakers and stopped any random flashing of my neon.    BTW, on the AC side of power supplys all neutrals and field grounds are naturally connected. You can daisy chain your AC side connections from one PS to the other. Make sure you have properly sized wire. The good news is that amp draw is much lower on the AC side then the DC side of the PS. My unprofessional rule of thumb (which is not exact science, just gut experience) is that my much lower DC voltage (12 & 5 vdc) will pull 3/4 more amps as what is on my mush higher AC feed (120 vac) side of the PS. There are a math equations and tools all over the internet to figure this out if you want to really know what it is. For example I have a 6 amp main fuse coming into my robot on the AC side. I pull 30 or more amps (right now. More in the future) through the AC-DC power converters on their DC side and have never blown that 6 amp main AC fuse. It's important to know what amperage is and how it relates and affects your power circuit designs. I can't stress that enough. Voltage and amperage are not the same.   Hope this helps someone. Dave Schulpius    On Wed, Dec 2, 2015 at 11:55 PM, jeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders] wrote:
 
 
Hi y'all,


Last we viewed Jeff's world of inept B9 building, I had finally worked through most of my neon bugs. He's been rambling away, entertaining guests and generally driving my wife crazy. So far, so good.   However, I'm still dealing with sporadic neon flashes between his comments. I now have another thought about its cause, but wanted to bounce it off you before I go through the effort of taking the big guy apart foe the jillionth time.


I'm using the Meanwell 320-12 power supply to power everything in my build. Yet I just realized that I have not done anything with the FG GROUND connection that sits next to the AC/L and AC/N inputs.  Could this be causing the random neon flashing when no voice files are playing?  Should I have connected this to the steal treads or some other place?


Sign me Jeff (how have I not electrocuted myself?) DeRose
   
   
   

Bob Darlington
Posts: 203
Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2014 5:38 pm

Re: Power supply ground

Post by Bob Darlington » Thu Dec 03, 2015 10:49 pm

Oh, actually you could put a 1Meg resistor across the input side, or perhaps a .01uF cap across the input. That should help filter out electrical noise getting into the system. Do you hear any hum at all in the audio?
-Bob
On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 5:08 PM, jeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders] wrote:

Bob's trying to kill me, LOL!!!

This is probably a stupid question, but here goes. The neon is blinking when no sound file is playing because some sort of soundless pulse is traveling down the + speaker wire, to the music interface and causing the interface to ignite the neon, right? So is there any kind of filtering device that could be placed on the + speaker out of the CF4 unit, eliminating this phantom pulse, but allowing the sound pulses through?

Sent from my iPad
------ Original Message ------

From: Bob Darlington rdarlington@gmail.com [B9Builders]
To: B9 Robots Builders Club
Sent: December 3, 2015 at 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Power supply ground

HV = High Voltage, yah.
I think the output of those tec22 modules is about 8000 volts, but don't remember for sure. And by across, I mean right across the two wires going to the neon, or even better from one to ground. If you use a tiny 1/4 watt resistor, it will lead a brief but spectacular existence before exploding violently and hurting you or the glass. We're looking at 5-10 watts here at this guessed voltage and I'm sure that little transformer will melt down trying to supply that much power.
Perhaps we best explore other options before this one!
-Bob
On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 3:01 PM, jeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders] wrote:

Thanks Bob, but please remember who you're talking to. I'll need a bit of clarity.

HV = High voltage, right? So would you be referring to the cables coming from the neon transformer and connected to the neon?

When you say "Install across", what is that process?

Thanks again!

Jeff-

Sent from my iPad
------ Original Message ------

From: Bob Darlington rdarlington@gmail.com [B9Builders]
To: B9 Robots Builders Club
Sent: December 3, 2015 at 12:44 PM
Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Power supply ground

Any chance it's static? You may want to try installing a 10 meg resistor across the HV terminals (that's 6.4 watts at 8000 volts so size it appropriately).
-Bob
On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 12:38 PM, jeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders] wrote:

Thanks to you Dave and Gary for the great advice. Please never feel like you'll insult me with elementary/rudimentary advice. In fact, if you could please incorporate hand puppets into the lesson, I believe I'd better retain the info..... ;-) I checked the AC wiring into the power supply and I was already, indeed, using the 3rd ground input and it was already wired to the FG on the supply. I had merely forgotten that I had. I apologize for shouting out a problem that didn't actually exist. That said, his neon still randomly blinks when it shouldn't. To answer your question Dave, yes, all neon flashes (whether accompanied with a voice file or random flashes without voice files) used to also be accompanied by a hum, but I installed an audio isolator along the line level RCA connection feeding the voice from the CF4 to the amp that actually plays the files through the speaker. This fixed the hum, but did not fix the flashing. I'd assume that this is because the isolator is not incorporated in a place that is "up stream" from the neon trigger signal. Compared to you all, my wiring is relatively simple (like its owner ;-). In a nutshell:
  • I'm using all 3 dc outputs (six wires..3 sets of 2 red/black) coming from the powersupply (don't know why, just seemed like the right thing to do). They feed into a 6 prong molex connector which then feeds the 6 wires to the torso from the waist plate.
  • I then feed these into a terminal bank which separates these feeds to supply power to 3 functions of the robot (1) Lights, (2) motors (currently just his ears) and (3) neon and audio. Again, I broke things up this way only because it made sense to me to have a separate feed (although coming from the same PS) for each of these areas.
  • Once main power is switched on at the tread, the lights and motors are turned on using two of the programming bay swithes.
  • The main neon and audio power are not switched in the programming bay. Instead, they are directly powered when I turn on the main switch on his treads. Yet he won t begin speaking until I throw the 3rd bay switch which is connected to the CF4 contact 24.
I hope this gives enough info. Thanks!
From: "David Schulpius dschulpius@wi.rr.com [B9Builders]"
To: "Tobor001@aol.com [B9Builders]"
Sent: Thursday, December 3, 2015 9:44:38 AM
Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Power supply ground

You may already know a lot of what I have to say in the following paragraphs. If so please forgive and know I'm writing this also for the newer builders who have little electrical knowledge. Basic electrical theory is really pretty easy to understand and implement. It just takes a little study and dedication to understanding it. There is a ton of free and easy to read and watch stuff on the internet and youtube.
Gary's advices is good and should be followed regardless if it solves your problem or not. Worst case is it doesn't change anything. Best case is your robot does not burn to the ground along with your house if there is a wiring problem or component failure. No lie. Yes I'm trying to get people's attention.
If it does not solve your problem I have a good feeling that what you're experiencing is electronic noise from something deep inside your robot. Usually you can hear it through the speakers. Do you hear a click through the speakers when the neon flashes? You may or may not. In your case and our robots this type of interference travels along the common neutrals of the DC devices connected to your power supply. You could drive yourself crazy trying to find where it's coming from because of the complexity of these B9's and all the different devices working together. One way would be to completely detach one unit at a time to see what is causing the problem and when found place an inline noise filter between that device and the power supply. Another way would be to try to run all your power lines a good distance from your signal and control lines. Sometimes that difficult to do. You may never be able to find where the noise id coming from or it's cause. The way I decided to eliminate this problem was to add a second power supply and run my sound system and neon system from it (these two systems must work together). I did not run any common neutrals between the any of my power supplies on the DC side. This stopped any electronic noise coming through my speakers and stopped any random flashing of my neon.
BTW, on the AC side of power supplys all neutrals and field grounds are naturally connected. You can daisy chain your AC side connections from one PS to the other. Make sure you have properly sized wire. The good news is that amp draw is much lower on the AC side then the DC side of the PS. My unprofessional rule of thumb (which is not exact science, just gut experience) is that my much lower DC voltage (12 & 5 vdc) will pull 3/4 more amps as what is on my mush higher AC feed (120 vac) side of the PS. There are a math equations and tools all over the internet to figure this out if you want to really know what it is. For example I have a 6 amp main fuse coming into my robot on the AC side. I pull 30 or more amps (right now. More in the future) through the AC-DC power converters on their DC side and have never blown that 6 amp main AC fuse. It's important to know what amperage is and how it relates and affects your power circuit designs. I can't stress that enough. Voltage and amperage are not the same.
Hope this helps someone. Dave Schulpius
On Wed, Dec 2, 2015 at 11:55 PM, jeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders] wrote:



Hi y'all,


Last we viewed Jeff's world of inept B9 building, I had finally worked through most of my neon bugs. He's been rambling away, entertaining guests and generally driving my wife crazy. So far, so good. However, I'm still dealing with sporadic neon flashes between his comments. I now have another thought about its cause, but wanted to bounce it off you before I go through the effort of taking the big guy apart foe the jillionth time.


I'm using the Meanwell 320-12 power supply to power everything in my build. Yet I just realized that I have not done anything with the FG GROUND connection that sits next to the AC/L and AC/N inputs. Could this be causing the random neon flashing when no voice files are playing? Should I have connected this to the steal treads or some other place?


Sign me Jeff (how have I not electrocuted myself?) DeRose



Jeff DeRose
Posts: 379
Joined: Fri Oct 25, 2013 12:50 am

Re: Power supply ground

Post by Jeff DeRose » Fri Dec 04, 2015 1:03 am

There was once a hum, but I put an audio isolator at the input of the second amp (not the amp that feeds the neon) and it took care of the hum. 

Sent from my iPad
On Dec 3, 2015, at 7:49 PM, "Bob Darlington rdarlington@gmail.com [B9Builders]" wrote:
 
Oh, actually you could put a 1Meg resistor across the input side, or perhaps a .01uF cap across the input.  That should help filter out electrical noise getting into the system.  Do you hear any hum at all in the audio?  
-Bob
On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 5:08 PM, jeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders] wrote:
 
Bob's trying to kill me, LOL!!!

This is probably a stupid question, but here goes.  The neon is blinking when no sound file is playing because some sort of soundless pulse is traveling down the + speaker wire, to the music interface and causing the interface to ignite the neon, right?  So is there any kind of filtering device that could be placed on the + speaker out of the CF4 unit, eliminating this phantom pulse, but allowing the sound pulses through?

Sent from my iPad
------ Original Message ------

From: Bob Darlington rdarlington@gmail.com [B9Builders]
To: B9 Robots Builders Club
Sent: December 3, 2015 at 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Power supply ground
 
HV = High Voltage, yah. 
I think the output of those tec22 modules is about 8000 volts, but don't remember for sure.  And by across, I mean right across the two wires going to the neon, or even better from one to ground.  If you use a tiny 1/4 watt resistor, it will lead a brief but spectacular existence before exploding violently and hurting you or the glass.  We're looking at 5-10 watts here at this guessed voltage and I'm sure that little transformer will melt down trying to supply that much power.
Perhaps we best explore other options before this one!
-Bob
On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 3:01 PM, jeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders] wrote:
 
Thanks Bob, but please remember who you're talking to.  I'll need a bit of clarity.

HV = High voltage, right?  So would you be referring to the cables coming from the neon transformer and connected to the neon?

When you say "Install across", what is that process?

Thanks again!

Jeff-

Sent from my iPad
------ Original Message ------

From: Bob Darlington rdarlington@gmail.com [B9Builders]
To: B9 Robots Builders Club
Sent: December 3, 2015 at 12:44 PM
Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Power supply ground
 
Any chance it's static?  You may want to try installing a 10 meg resistor across  the HV terminals (that's 6.4 watts at 8000 volts so size it appropriately).
-Bob
On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 12:38 PM, jeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders] wrote:
 
  Thanks to you Dave and Gary for the great advice. Please never feel like you'll insult me with elementary/rudimentary advice. In fact, if you could please incorporate hand puppets into the lesson, I believe I'd better retain the info..... ;-) I checked the AC wiring into the power supply and I was already, indeed, using the 3rd ground input and it was already wired to the FG on the supply. I had merely forgotten that I had. I apologize for shouting out a problem that didn't actually exist. That said, his neon still randomly blinks when it shouldn't. To answer your question Dave, yes, all neon flashes (whether accompanied with a voice file or random flashes without voice files) used to also be accompanied by a hum, but I installed an audio isolator along the line level RCA connection feeding the voice from the CF4 to the amp that actually plays the files through the speaker. This fixed the hum, but did not fix the flashing. I'd assume that this is because the isolator is not incorporated in a place that is "up stream" from the neon trigger signal. Compared to you all, my wiring is relatively simple (like its owner ;-). In a nutshell:
  • I'm using all 3 dc outputs (six wires..3 sets of 2 red/black) coming from the powersupply (don't know why, just seemed like the right thing to do). They feed into a 6 prong molex connector which then feeds the 6 wires to the torso from the waist plate.
  • I then feed these into a terminal bank which separates these feeds to supply power to 3 functions of the robot (1) Lights, (2) motors (currently just his ears) and (3) neon and audio. Again, I broke things up this way only because it made sense to me to have a separate feed (although coming from the same PS) for each of these areas.
  • Once main power is switched on at the tread, the lights and motors are turned on using two of the programming bay swithes.
  • The main neon and audio power are not switched in the programming bay. Instead, they are directly powered when I turn on the main switch on his treads. Yet he won t begin speaking until I throw the 3rd bay switch which is connected to the CF4 contact 24.
I hope this gives enough info.   Thanks!      
From: "David Schulpius dschulpius@wi.rr.com [B9Builders]"
To: "Tobor001@aol.com [B9Builders]"
Sent: Thursday, December 3, 2015 9:44:38 AM
Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Power supply ground

  You may already know a lot of what I have to say in the following paragraphs. If so please forgive and know I'm writing this also for the newer builders who have little electrical knowledge. Basic electrical theory is really pretty easy to understand and implement. It just takes a little study and dedication to understanding it. There is a ton of free and easy to read and watch stuff on the internet and youtube. 
Gary's advices is good and should be followed regardless if it solves your problem or not. Worst case is it doesn't change anything. Best case is your robot does not burn to the ground along with your house if there is a wiring problem or component failure. No lie. Yes I'm trying to get people's attention. 
If it does not solve your problem I have a good feeling that what you're experiencing is electronic noise from something deep inside your robot. Usually you can hear it through the speakers. Do you hear a click through the speakers when the neon flashes? You may or may not. In your case and our robots this type of interference travels along the common neutrals of the DC devices connected to your power supply. You could drive yourself crazy trying to find where it's coming from because of the complexity of these B9's and all the different devices working together. One way would be to completely detach one unit at a time to see what is causing the problem and when found place an inline noise filter between that device and the power supply. Another way would be to try to run all your power lines a good distance from your signal and control lines. Sometimes that difficult to do. You may never be able to find where the noise id coming from or it's cause. The way I decided to eliminate this problem was to add a second power supply and run my sound system and neon system from it (these two systems must work together). I did not run any common neutrals between the any of my power supplies on the DC side. This stopped any electronic noise coming through my speakers and stopped any random flashing of my neon.  
BTW, on the AC side of power supplys all neutrals and field grounds are naturally connected. You can daisy chain your AC side connections from one PS to the other. Make sure you have properly sized wire. The good news is that amp draw is much lower on the AC side then the DC side of the PS. My unprofessional rule of thumb (which is not exact science, just gut experience) is that my much lower DC voltage (12 & 5 vdc) will pull 3/4 more amps as what is on my mush higher AC feed (120 vac) side of the PS. There are a math equations and tools all over the internet to figure this out if you want to really know what it is. For example I have a 6 amp main fuse coming into my robot on the AC side. I pull 30 or more amps (right now. More in the future) through the AC-DC power converters on their DC side and have never blown that 6 amp main AC fuse. It's important to know what amperage is and how it relates and affects your power circuit designs. I can't stress that enough. Voltage and amperage are not the same.
Hope this helps someone.  Dave Schulpius  
On Wed, Dec 2, 2015 at 11:55 PM, jeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders] wrote:
 


Hi y'all,


Last we viewed Jeff's world of inept B9 building, I had finally worked through most of my neon bugs. He's been rambling away, entertaining guests and generally driving my wife crazy. So far, so good.   However, I'm still dealing with sporadic neon flashes between his comments. I now have another thought about its cause, but wanted to bounce it off you before I go through the effort of taking the big guy apart foe the jillionth time. 


I'm using the Meanwell 320-12 power supply to power everything in my build. Yet I just realized that I have not done anything with the FG GROUND connection that sits next to the AC/L and AC/N inputs.  Could this be causing the random neon flashing when no voice files are playing?  Should I have connected this to the steal treads or some other place?


Sign me Jeff (how have I not electrocuted myself?) DeRose



Jeff DeRose
Posts: 379
Joined: Fri Oct 25, 2013 12:50 am

Re: Power supply ground

Post by Jeff DeRose » Fri Dec 04, 2015 1:07 am

I'm a dunce in the midst of geniuses.  Thank you Paul. I will research your advice. 
Thanks to everyone who has thrown in 2 cents. You guys are awesome!
Jeff-

Sent from my iPad
On Dec 3, 2015, at 6:00 PM, "Paul dromana@drivein.net.au [B9Builders]" wrote:
 
Hi all,
Regarding the random triggering of the Neon - I would try a bypass capacitor across the audio terminals of the neon device...
This could also be tried on other AUDIO signal lines associated - the interference could be picked up anywhere in the audio chain.
The idea is to shunt to ground, any energy that is higher in frequency than the desired audio - say about 3khz is enough to get a good visual representation of most music & speech. There is some maths behind it - capacitive reactance at various frequencies, in association with the input impedance of the Neon circuit.
Easier to experiment with values - bear in mind that the higher the value, the less bass sound will get through.
From experience, I would start with a 1uF 36volt or so Electrolytic Capacitor and see the result. You may need a bit more volume. If it all stops, its letting too much through - so try a smaller one - say 100nF Greencap, or even into a ceramic cap of about 100pf.
"Danger Danger Will Robinson" ... Do NOT put this on the HV output connections - at best an explosion and lots of smoke!

Hope that helps.  Good Luck!

On 4/12/2015 11:08 AM, jeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders] wrote:
 
Bob's trying to kill me, LOL!!!

This is probably a stupid question, but here goes.  The neon is blinking when no sound file is playing because some sort of soundless pulse is traveling down the + speaker wire, to the music interface and causing the interface to ignite the neon, right?  So is there any kind of filtering device that could be placed on the + speaker out of the CF4 unit, eliminating this phantom pulse, but allowing the sound pulses through?

Sent from my iPad
------ Original Message ------

From: Bob Darlington rdarlington@gmail.com [B9Builders]
To: B9 Robots Builders Club
Sent: December 3, 2015 at 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Power supply ground
  HV = High Voltage, yah. 
I think the output of those tec22 modules is about 8000 volts, but don't remember for sure.  And by across, I mean right across the two wires going to the neon, or even better from one to ground.  If you use a tiny 1/4 watt resistor, it will lead a brief but spectacular existence before exploding violently and hurting you or the glass.  We're looking at 5-10 watts here at this guessed voltage and I'm sure that little transformer will melt down trying to supply that much power.
Perhaps we best explore other options before this one!
-Bob
On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 3:01 PM, jeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders] wrote:
 
Thanks Bob, but please remember who you're talking to.  I'll need a bit of clarity.

HV = High voltage, right?  So would you be referring to the cables coming from the neon transformer and connected to the neon?

When you say "Install across", what is that process?

Thanks again!

Jeff-

Sent from my iPad
------ Original Message ------

From: Bob Darlington rdarlington@gmail.comrdarlington@gmail.com [B9Builders]
To: B9 Robots Builders Club
Sent: December 3, 2015 at 12:44 PM
Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Power supply ground
  Any chance it's static?  You may want to try installing a 10 meg resistor across  the HV terminals (that's 6.4 watts at 8000 volts so size it appropriately).
-Bob
On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 12:38 PM, jeff.derose@comcast.netjeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders] wrote:
    Thanks to you Dave and Gary for the great advice. Please never feel like you'll insult me with elementary/rudimentary advice. In fact, if you could please incorporate hand puppets into the lesson, I believe I'd better retain the info..... ;-) I checked the AC wiring into the power supply and I was already, indeed, using the 3rd ground input and it was already wired to the FG on the supply. I had merely forgotten that I had. I apologize for shouting out a problem that didn't actually exist. That said, his neon still randomly blinks when it shouldn't. To answer your question Dave, yes, all neon flashes (whether accompanied with a voice file or random flashes without voice files) used to also be accompanied by a hum, but I installed an audio isolator along the line level RCA connection feeding the voice from the CF4 to the amp that actually plays the files through the speaker. This fixed the hum, but did not fix the flashing. I'd assume that this is because the isolator is not incorporated in a place that is "up stream" from the neon trigger signal. Compared to you all, my wiring is relatively simple (like its owner ;-). In a nutshell:
  • I'm using all 3 dc outputs (six wires..3 sets of 2 red/black) coming from the powersupply (don't know why, just seemed like the right thing to do). They feed into a 6 prong molex connector which then feeds the 6 wires to the torso from the waist plate.
  • I then feed these into a terminal bank which separates these feeds to supply power to 3 functions of the robot (1) Lights, (2) motors (currently just his ears) and (3) neon and audio. Again, I broke things up this way only because it made sense to me to have a separate feed (although coming from the same PS) for each of these areas.
  • Once main power is switched on at the tread, the lights and motors are turned on using two of the programming bay swithes.
  • The main neon and audio power are not switched in the programming bay. Instead, they are directly powered when I turn on the main switch on his treads. Yet he won t begin speaking until I throw the 3rd bay switch which is connected to the CF4 contact 24.
I hope this gives enough info.   Thanks!      
From: "David Schulpius dschulpius@wi.rr.comdschulpius@wi.rr.com [B9Builders]"
To: "Tobor001@aol.comTobor001@aol.com [B9Builders]"
Sent: Thursday, December 3, 2015 9:44:38 AM
Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Power supply ground

  You may already know a lot of what I have to say in the following paragraphs. If so please forgive and know I'm writing this also for the newer builders who have little electrical knowledge. Basic electrical theory is really pretty easy to understand and implement. It just takes a little study and dedication to understanding it. There is a ton of free and easy to read and watch stuff on the internet and youtube. 
Gary's advices is good and should be followed regardless if it solves your problem or not. Worst case is it doesn't change anything. Best case is your robot does not burn to the ground along with your house if there is a wiring problem or component failure. No lie. Yes I'm trying to get people's attention. 
If it does not solve your problem I have a good feeling that what you're experiencing is electronic noise from something deep inside your robot. Usually you can hear it through the speakers. Do you hear a click through the speakers when the neon flashes? You may or may not. In your case and our robots this type of interference travels along the common neutrals of the DC devices connected to your power supply. You could drive yourself crazy trying to find where it's coming from because of the complexity of these B9's and all the different devices working together. One way would be to completely detach one unit at a time to see what is causing the problem and when found place an inline noise filter between that device and the power supply. Another way would be to try to run all your power lines a good distance from your signal and control lines. Sometimes that difficult to do. You may never be able to find where the noise id coming from or it's cause. The way I decided to eliminate this problem was to add a second power supply and run my sound system and neon system from it (these two systems must work together). I did not run any common neutrals between the any of my power supplies on the DC side. This stopped any electronic noise coming through my speakers and stopped any random flashing of my neon.  
BTW, on the AC side of power supplys all neutrals and field grounds are naturally connected. You can daisy chain your AC side connections from one PS to the other. Make sure you have properly sized wire. The good news is that amp draw is much lower on the AC side then the DC side of the PS. My unprofessional rule of thumb (which is not exact science, just gut experience) is that my much lower DC voltage (12 & 5 vdc) will pull 3/4 more amps as what is on my mush higher AC feed (120 vac) side of the PS. There are a math equations and tools all over the internet to figure this out if you want to really know what it is. For example I have a 6 amp main fuse coming into my robot on the AC side. I pull 30 or more amps (right now. More in the future) through the AC-DC power converters on their DC side and have never blown that 6 amp main AC fuse. It's important to know what amperage is and how it relates and affects your power circuit designs. I can't stress that enough. Voltage and amperage are not the same.
Hope this helps someone.  Dave Schulpius  
On Wed, Dec 2, 2015 at 11:55 PM, jeff.derose@comcast.netjeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders] wrote:
 


Hi y'all,


Last we viewed Jeff's world of inept B9 building, I had finally worked through most of my neon bugs. He's been rambling away, entertaining guests and generally driving my wife crazy. So far, so good.   However, I'm still dealing with sporadic neon flashes between his comments. I now have another thought about its cause, but wanted to bounce it off you before I go through the effort of taking the big guy apart foe the jillionth time. 


I'm using the Meanwell 320-12 power supply to power everything in my build. Yet I just realized that I have not done anything with the FG GROUND connection that sits next to the AC/L and AC/N inputs.  Could this be causing the random neon flashing when no voice files are playing?  Should I have connected this to the steal treads or some other place?


Sign me Jeff (how have I not electrocuted myself?) DeRose



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