Re: Slip Rings

David Schulpius
Posts: 1163
Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2011 7:57 pm

Re: Slip Rings

Post by David Schulpius » Sun Nov 01, 2015 11:13 am

"Overheating during soldering".... Wonder how I knew about that one. Hehe. :-)

David H is really hitting on an important point and I need to validate what he's saying. It's better to find out if there is a root cause to the switch failure other than the switch itself. You don't want to keep this issue alive if you don't really know the cause. You don't want to keep installing new parts or new designs without really knowing what the real specs of your power systems are. A few real important things to know about designing any power circuit other than the voltage (value and type) is:
  • How much current (amps) any and all devices or motors will draw
  • How much current your power supply is rated to give
  • How how much current your conductors and connectors can handle
  • How how much current can pass through other devices in the circuit (switches, diodes, resistors, slip rings, exc)
If any of these are current underrated then you have a weak spot in the chain and will experience a failure. Hopefully it won't be catastrophic or deadly.
No, I'm not being dramatic with that last statement. ;-) We're usually talking DC voltage with our robots and this voltage is a lot safer than AC. However, with DC overload or shorts you can still have heat and fires if the circuit is not properly designed and protected. Also don't underestimate the importance of proper fusing to protect both the robot's parts but your safety.
Let me know if I can help you with any of this. Good pictures of your setup, schematic drawings of what you have built and component types and specs will help make things easier to find any problems.
Hope this helps, Dave Schulpius
On Sun, Nov 1, 2015 at 9:16 AM, toblueiis toblueiis@yahoo.com [B9Builders] wrote:


Hello,

That brings up some good issues. If the limit switch is being used for switching the load (motor), or if it is being used just for generating signals. If it is just signals, that switch should wear out mechanically before it would be damaged by the current load. Just sending a signal takes very little power. Dave S. presented some good points including the possibility of overheating during soldering. It would be nice to see the exact wiring of the switch, with all associated parts.

Some limit switches have pretty high current ratings, and if your switch is being damaged by a current issue, excess current could be pretty rough on the slip rings. Whether you go to slip rings on not, it would still be a good idea to determine what is being your problem in this failure. It could relate to something else you will deal with further down the line with another circuit or mechanism, so you can take this into consideration in further designing. Also, any troubleshooting you will do, helps you be a better troubleshooter in the future. You learn the mindset or thinking patterns of being a better troubleshooter, and it isn't just limited to your robot.

thanks,

David M.

--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 11/1/15, David Schulpius dschulpius@wi.rr.com [B9Builders] wrote:

Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Slip Rings
To: "Tobor001@aol.com [B9Builders]"
Date: Sunday, November 1, 2015, 8:49 AM


I was wondering the same thing as
David above. It's odd that the same switch has gone bad
twice and in such a short time. Usually any type of switch
is rated for tens of thousands of operations and should last
for decades. Some factors that would limit the lifetime
would be over current of the rated amperage, overheating the
lugs when soldering or abuse (slamming into the switch too
fast with the moving load). These stitched also can easily
go out of calibration if not installed and set properly. For
example with micro switches; if you install the switch and
bend the actuator arm so the moving load will trigger the
switch but the actuator arm has to bend a little to trigger
the switch, over time the arm will bend so it won't
trigger the switch anymore. I have limit switches installed
also in both my waist and radar and they hardly ever get
hit. They're just there to calibrate the end points in
the control software and for a panic runaway situation. My
control software (EZ Robot's EZ Builder that's
sending speed and position commands to a Sabertooth 2X32
with a Kangaroo 2x daughterboard) knows where the endpoints
(limit switches) are and will stop short of them (called
Soft Limit points) even if I try to command a move past
them.
Maybe we can help? If your willing
I have a few questions; How are you using these switches?
Are you using them as an end point identifier that needs to
be hit every time to get the motion to go the other way?
What type of switches are you using for your limit switches?
How much amperage are you pulling through them and how many
amps are they rated for? Do you have a few pictures of how
you have them installed?
I'm also curious on your slip
ring expectations. I know little about the types of slip
rings out there. I at first wanted to use one in my build
but was in too much of a hurry when I started my build to
learn about them and take the time to find the right one. I
thought the slip ring was just for power transfer between
two moving parts. How can they be used in place of limit
switches? Also Mike mentioned there is one that allows for
signals to pass through. Mike do you have any info or links
on this you can share?
Have fun, Dave
Schulpius
On Sun, Nov 1, 2015 at
12:20 AM, Mike Handley mike_handley@yahoo.com
[B9Builders]
wrote:

























Me too, using it at the base of the CSS.
Commoned several pairs together to transport 24v to the
torso, leaving the rest for signal lines.
Mike H



On
Nov 1, 2015, at 9:14 AM, Bob Darlington rdarlington@gmail.com
[B9Builders]
wrote:























Yeah, or at least I'm
planning to. I bought the slip ring that was being sold
in a group buy through the R2 club. It's something
like 20 conductors and fairly small.
-Bob
On Sat, Oct 31, 2015 at
7:01 PM, Daniel Angel danielscottangel@gmail.com
[B9Builders]
wrote:

























Anyone using slip rings on their build?



D.Scott

--

Conquering the world one robot at a time....































































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toblueiis
Posts: 270
Joined: Mon May 27, 2013 11:11 am

Re: Slip Rings

Post by toblueiis » Sun Nov 01, 2015 11:31 am

Hello,

One of the best quotes that I ran across, and it may have been from someone in this group, was OVER-DESIGN IS UNDER-RATED !

thanks,

David M.



--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 11/1/15, David Schulpius dschulpius@wi.rr.com [B9Builders] wrote:

Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Slip Rings
To: "Tobor001@aol.com [B9Builders]"
Date: Sunday, November 1, 2015, 10:12 AM

"Overheating during
soldering".... Wonder how I knew about that one. Hehe.
:-)

David H is really hitting on an
important point and I need to validate what he's
saying. It's better to find out if there is a root cause
to the switch failure other than the switch itself.
You don't want to keep this issue alive if
you don't really know the cause. You don't want
to keep installing new parts or new designs without really
knowing what the real specs of your power systems are. A few
real important things to know about designing any power
circuit other than the voltage (value and type)
is:How much current (amps) any and
all devices or motors will draw
How much current your power
supply is rated to give
How
how much current your conductors and connectors can
handle
How how much current can pass
through other
devices in the circuit (switches, diodes, resistors,
slip rings, exc) If any of these are
current underrated then you have a weak spot in the chain
and will experience a failure. Hopefully it won't be
catastrophic or deadly.
No, I'm not being
dramatic with that last statement. ;-) We're usually
talking DC voltage with our robots and this voltage is a lot
safer than AC. However, with DC overload or shorts you can
still have heat and fires if the circuit is not properly
designed and protected. Also don't underestimate the
importance of proper fusing to protect both the robot's
parts but your safety.
Let me know if I can help
you with any of this. Good pictures of your setup, schematic
drawings of what you have built and component types and
specs will help make things easier to find any
problems.
Hope this
helps, Dave
Schulpius
On Sun, Nov 1, 2015 at 9:16
AM, toblueiis toblueiis@yahoo.com
[B9Builders]
wrote:



























Hello,



That brings up some good issues. If the limit switch is
being used for switching the load (motor), or if it is being
used just for generating signals. If it is just signals,
that switch should wear out mechanically before it would be
damaged by the current load. Just sending a signal takes
very little power. Dave S. presented some good points
including the possibility of overheating during soldering.
It would be nice to see the exact wiring of the switch, with
all associated parts.



Some limit switches have pretty high current ratings, and if
your switch is being damaged by a current issue, excess
current could be pretty rough on the slip rings. Whether
you go to slip rings on not, it would still be a good idea
to determine what is being your problem in this failure. It
could relate to something else you will deal with further
down the line with another circuit or mechanism, so you can
take this into consideration in further designing. Also,
any troubleshooting you will do, helps you be a better
troubleshooter in the future. You learn the mindset or
thinking patterns of being a better troubleshooter, and it
isn't just limited to your robot.



thanks,



David M.



--------------------------------------------

On Sun, 11/1/15, David Schulpius dschulpius@wi.rr.com
[B9Builders]
wrote:



Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Slip Rings

To: "Tobor001@aol.com
[B9Builders]"

Date: Sunday, November 1, 2015, 8:49 AM





I was wondering the same thing as

David above. It's odd that the same switch has gone
bad

twice and in such a short time. Usually any type of
switch

is rated for tens of thousands of operations and should
last

for decades. Some factors that would limit the lifetime

would be over current of the rated amperage, overheating
the

lugs when soldering or abuse (slamming into the switch
too

fast with the moving load). These stitched also can
easily

go out of calibration if not installed and set properly.
For

example with micro switches; if you install the switch
and

bend the actuator arm so the moving load will trigger
the

switch but the actuator arm has to bend a little to
trigger

the switch, over time the arm will bend so it won't

trigger the switch anymore. I have limit switches
installed

also in both my waist and radar and they hardly ever get

hit. They're just there to calibrate the end points
in

the control software and for a panic runaway situation.
My

control software (EZ Robot's EZ Builder that's

sending speed and position commands to a Sabertooth 2X32

with a Kangaroo 2x daughterboard) knows where the
endpoints

(limit switches) are and will stop short of them (called

Soft Limit points) even if I try to command a move past

them.

Maybe we can help? If your willing

I have a few questions; How are you using these
switches?

Are you using them as an end point identifier that needs
to

be hit every time to get the motion to go the other way?

What type of switches are you using for your limit
switches?

How much amperage are you pulling through them and how
many

amps are they rated for? Do you have a few pictures of
how

you have them installed?

I'm also curious on your slip

ring expectations. I know little about the types of slip

rings out there. I at first wanted to use one in my
build

but was in too much of a hurry when I started my build
to

learn about them and take the time to find the right one.
I

thought the slip ring was just for power transfer
between

two moving parts. How can they be used in place of limit

switches? Also Mike mentioned there is one that allows
for

signals to pass through. Mike do you have any info or
links

on this you can share?

Have fun, Dave

Schulpius

On Sun, Nov 1, 2015 at

12:20 AM, Mike Handley mike_handley@yahoo.com

[B9Builders]

wrote:



















































Me too, using it at the base of the CSS.

Commoned several pairs together to transport 24v to
the

torso, leaving the rest for signal lines.

Mike H







On

Nov 1, 2015, at 9:14 AM, Bob Darlington rdarlington@gmail.com

[B9Builders]

wrote:















































Yeah, or at least I'm

planning to. I bought the slip ring that was being
sold

in a group buy through the R2 club. It's something

like 20 conductors and fairly small.

-Bob

On Sat, Oct 31, 2015 at

7:01 PM, Daniel Angel danielscottangel@gmail.com

[B9Builders]

wrote:



















































Anyone using slip rings on their build?







D.Scott



--



Conquering the world one robot at a time....































































































































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toblueiis
Posts: 270
Joined: Mon May 27, 2013 11:11 am

Re: Slip Rings

Post by toblueiis » Sun Nov 01, 2015 12:46 pm

Hello,

And just to help clarify, OVER-DESIGN is not similar to OVER-LOADED (LOL). I once was talking with an engineer who believed that the more devices he added to a loop, the higher the resistance, and the less current drawn, so the circuit just got better and better. Strange how this thinking was resulting in power supplies burning up. I told him that he should focus on each device having a rated wattage and adding them together gave a total wattage, which should be compared to the wattage rating of the power supplies, which he was overwhelming. After that, power supplies started lasting much longer.

Two important ratings to view when looking at parts, are the normal operating ratings and the surge ratings. It is never a good idea to constantly run parts at the surge ratings, whether voltage or current. It has such a drastic effect on lifespan. After all, we are looking to design our devices, and be able to move on to the next device. That being said, sometimes devices interact with each other as we didn't expect and we have to make some type of correction. But, that is part of the learning and growing experience. And fortunately there are a good number of good hearted builders out there who are willing to share their talents and experience, and even step into new areas to help fellow builders. It is nice to have such people who care about the struggles of other builders and wish the best for their efforts, even though they may never meet those other people.

thanks,

David M.

-------------------------------
On Sun, 11/1/15, toblueiis toblueiis@yahoo.com [B9Builders] wrote:

Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Slip Rings
To: B9Builders@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, November 1, 2015, 10:28 AM

Hello,

One of the best quotes that I ran across, and it may have
been from someone in this group, was OVER-DESIGN IS
UNDER-RATED !



thanks,



David M.



--------------------------------------------

On Sun, 11/1/15, David Schulpius dschulpius@wi.rr.com
[B9Builders] wrote:



Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Slip Rings

To: "Tobor001@aol.com [B9Builders]"


Date: Sunday, November 1, 2015, 10:12 AM



"Overheating during

soldering".... Wonder how I knew about that one.
Hehe.

:-)



David H is really hitting on an

important point and I need to validate what he's

saying. It's better to find out if there is a root
cause

to the switch failure other than the switch itself.

You don't want to keep this issue alive if

you don't really know the cause.
You don't want

to keep installing new parts or new designs without
really

knowing what the real specs of your power systems are. A
few

real important things to know about designing any
power

circuit other than the voltage (value and type)

is:How much current (amps) any and

all devices or motors will draw

How much current your power

supply is rated to give

How

how much current your conductors and connectors can

handle

How how much current can pass

through other

devices in the circuit (switches, diodes, resistors,

slip rings, exc) If any of these are

current underrated then you have a weak spot in the
chain

and will experience a failure. Hopefully it won't be

catastrophic or deadly.

No, I'm not being

dramatic with that last statement. ;-) We're usually

talking DC voltage with our robots and this voltage is a
lot

safer than AC. However, with DC overload or shorts you
can

still have heat and fires if the circuit is not properly

designed and protected. Also don't underestimate the

importance of proper fusing to protect both the
robot's

parts but your safety.

Let me know if I can help

you with any of this. Good pictures of your setup,
schematic

drawings of what you have built and component types and

specs will help make things easier to find any

problems.

Hope this

helps, Dave

Schulpius

On Sun, Nov 1, 2015 at 9:16

AM, toblueiis toblueiis@yahoo.com

[B9Builders]

wrote:























































Hello,







That brings up some good issues. If the limit switch is

being used for switching the load (motor), or if it is
being

used just for generating signals. If it is just
signals,

that switch should wear out mechanically before it would
be

damaged by the current load. Just sending a signal
takes

very little power. Dave S. presented some good points

including the possibility of overheating during soldering.


It would be nice to see the exact wiring of the switch,
with

all associated parts.







Some limit switches have pretty high current ratings, and
if

your switch is being damaged by a current issue, excess

current could be pretty rough on the slip rings.
Whether

you go to slip rings on not, it would still be a good
idea

to determine what is being your problem in this failure.
It

could relate to something else you will deal with
further

down the line with another circuit or mechanism, so you
can

take this into consideration in further designing.
Also,

any troubleshooting you will do, helps you be a better

troubleshooter in the future. You learn the mindset or

thinking patterns of being a better troubleshooter, and
it

isn't just limited to your robot.







thanks,







David M.







--------------------------------------------



On Sun, 11/1/15, David Schulpius dschulpius@wi.rr.com

[B9Builders]

wrote:







Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Slip Rings



To: "Tobor001@aol.com

[B9Builders]"



Date: Sunday, November 1, 2015, 8:49 AM











I was wondering the same thing as



David above. It's odd that the same switch has gone

bad



twice and in such a short time. Usually any type of

switch



is rated for tens of thousands of operations and should

last



for decades. Some factors that would limit the lifetime



would be over current of the rated amperage,
overheating

the



lugs when soldering or abuse (slamming into the switch

too



fast with the moving load). These stitched also can

easily



go out of calibration if not installed and set
properly.

For



example with micro switches; if you install the switch

and



bend the actuator arm so the moving load will trigger

the



switch but the actuator arm has to bend a little to

trigger



the switch, over time the arm will bend so it won't



trigger the switch anymore. I have limit switches

installed



also in both my waist and radar and they hardly ever
get



hit. They're just there to calibrate the end points

in



the control software and for a panic runaway situation.

My



control software (EZ Robot's EZ Builder that's



sending speed and position commands to a Sabertooth
2X32



with a Kangaroo 2x daughterboard) knows where the

endpoints



(limit switches) are and will stop short of them
(called



Soft Limit points) even if I try to command a move past



them.



Maybe we can help? If your willing



I have a few questions; How are you using these

switches?



Are you using them as an end point identifier that
needs

to



be hit every time to get the motion to go the other
way?



What type of switches are you using for your limit

switches?



How much amperage are you pulling through them and how

many



amps are they rated for? Do you have a few pictures of

how



you have them installed?



I'm also curious on your slip



ring expectations. I know little about the types of
slip



rings out there. I at first wanted to use one in my

build



but was in too much of a hurry when I started my build

to



learn about them and take the time to find the right
one.

I



thought the slip ring was just for power transfer

between



two moving parts. How can they be used in place of
limit



switches? Also Mike mentioned there is one that allows

for



signals to pass through. Mike do you have any info or

links



on this you can share?



Have fun, Dave



Schulpius



On Sun, Nov 1, 2015 at



12:20 AM, Mike Handley mike_handley@yahoo.com



[B9Builders]



wrote:







































































































Me too, using it at the base of the CSS.



Commoned several pairs together to transport 24v to

the



torso, leaving the rest for signal lines.



Mike H















On



Nov 1, 2015, at 9:14 AM, Bob Darlington
rdarlington@gmail.com



[B9Builders]



wrote:































































































Yeah, or at least I'm



planning to. I bought the slip ring that was being

sold



in a group buy through the R2 club. It's
something



like 20 conductors and fairly small.



-Bob



On Sat, Oct 31, 2015 at



7:01 PM, Daniel Angel danielscottangel@gmail.com



[B9Builders]



wrote:







































































































Anyone using slip rings on their build?















D.Scott







--







Conquering the world one robot at a time....































































































































































































































































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Bob Darlington
Posts: 203
Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2014 5:38 pm

Re: Slip Rings

Post by Bob Darlington » Sun Nov 01, 2015 1:15 pm

Guys, limit switches should be handling no more than about 5 volts at almost zero current. These are for telling some type of controller you're at a limit, not for cutting mains power when you reach that limit. Unless you're overheating them during soldering or bashing into them, they should last about a million years.
If they're frying under use, you're doing something wrong. Ping me direct and lets discuss your setup.
-Bob
On Sun, Nov 1, 2015 at 10:43 AM, toblueiis toblueiis@yahoo.com [B9Builders] wrote:

Hello,

And just to help clarify, OVER-DESIGN is not similar to OVER-LOADED (LOL). I once was talking with an engineer who believed that the more devices he added to a loop, the higher the resistance, and the less current drawn, so the circuit just got better and better. Strange how this thinking was resulting in power supplies burning up. I told him that he should focus on each device having a rated wattage and adding them together gave a total wattage, which should be compared to the wattage rating of the power supplies, which he was overwhelming. After that, power supplies started lasting much longer.

Two important ratings to view when looking at parts, are the normal operating ratings and the surge ratings. It is never a good idea to constantly run parts at the surge ratings, whether voltage or current. It has such a drastic effect on lifespan. After all, we are looking to design our devices, and be able to move on to the next device. That being said, sometimes devices interact with each other as we didn't expect and we have to make some type of correction. But, that is part of the learning and growing experience. And fortunately there are a good number of good hearted builders out there who are willing to share their talents and experience, and even step into new areas to help fellow builders. It is nice to have such people who care about the struggles of other builders and wish the best for their efforts, even though they may never meet those other people.

thanks,

David M.

-------------------------------
On Sun, 11/1/15, toblueiis toblueiis@yahoo.com [B9Builders] wrote:

Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Slip Rings
To: B9Builders@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, November 1, 2015, 10:28 AM

Hello,

One of the best quotes that I ran across, and it may have
been from someone in this group, was OVER-DESIGN IS
UNDER-RATED !



thanks,



David M.



--------------------------------------------

On Sun, 11/1/15, David Schulpius dschulpius@wi.rr.com
[B9Builders] wrote:



Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Slip Rings

To: "Tobor001@aol.com [B9Builders]"


Date: Sunday, November 1, 2015, 10:12 AM



"Overheating during

soldering".... Wonder how I knew about that one.
Hehe.

:-)



David H is really hitting on an

important point and I need to validate what he's

saying. It's better to find out if there is a root
cause

to the switch failure other than the switch itself.

You don't want to keep this issue alive if

you don't really know the cause.
You don't want

to keep installing new parts or new designs without
really

knowing what the real specs of your power systems are. A
few

real important things to know about designing any
power

circuit other than the voltage (value and type)

is:How much current (amps) any and

all devices or motors will draw

How much current your power

supply is rated to give

How

how much current your conductors and connectors can

handle

How how much current can pass

through other

devices in the circuit (switches, diodes, resistors,

slip rings, exc) If any of these are

current underrated then you have a weak spot in the
chain

and will experience a failure. Hopefully it won't be

catastrophic or deadly.

No, I'm not being

dramatic with that last statement. ;-) We're usually

talking DC voltage with our robots and this voltage is a
lot

safer than AC. However, with DC overload or shorts you
can

still have heat and fires if the circuit is not properly

designed and protected. Also don't underestimate the

importance of proper fusing to protect both the
robot's

parts but your safety.

Let me know if I can help

you with any of this. Good pictures of your setup,
schematic

drawings of what you have built and component types and

specs will help make things easier to find any

problems.

Hope this

helps, Dave

Schulpius

On Sun, Nov 1, 2015 at 9:16

AM, toblueiis toblueiis@yahoo.com

[B9Builders]

wrote:























































Hello,







That brings up some good issues. If the limit switch is

being used for switching the load (motor), or if it is
being

used just for generating signals. If it is just
signals,

that switch should wear out mechanically before it would
be

damaged by the current load. Just sending a signal
takes

very little power. Dave S. presented some good points

including the possibility of overheating during soldering.


It would be nice to see the exact wiring of the switch,
with

all associated parts.







Some limit switches have pretty high current ratings, and
if

your switch is being damaged by a current issue, excess

current could be pretty rough on the slip rings.
Whether

you go to slip rings on not, it would still be a good
idea

to determine what is being your problem in this failure.
It

could relate to something else you will deal with
further

down the line with another circuit or mechanism, so you
can

take this into consideration in further designing.
Also,

any troubleshooting you will do, helps you be a better

troubleshooter in the future. You learn the mindset or

thinking patterns of being a better troubleshooter, and
it

isn't just limited to your robot.







thanks,







David M.







--------------------------------------------



On Sun, 11/1/15, David Schulpius dschulpius@wi.rr.com

[B9Builders]

wrote:







Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Slip Rings



To: "Tobor001@aol.com

[B9Builders]"



Date: Sunday, November 1, 2015, 8:49 AM











I was wondering the same thing as



David above. It's odd that the same switch has gone

bad



twice and in such a short time. Usually any type of

switch



is rated for tens of thousands of operations and should

last



for decades. Some factors that would limit the lifetime



would be over current of the rated amperage,
overheating

the



lugs when soldering or abuse (slamming into the switch

too



fast with the moving load). These stitched also can

easily



go out of calibration if not installed and set
properly.

For



example with micro switches; if you install the switch

and



bend the actuator arm so the moving load will trigger

the



switch but the actuator arm has to bend a little to

trigger



the switch, over time the arm will bend so it won't



trigger the switch anymore. I have limit switches

installed



also in both my waist and radar and they hardly ever
get



hit. They're just there to calibrate the end points

in



the control software and for a panic runaway situation.

My



control software (EZ Robot's EZ Builder that's



sending speed and position commands to a Sabertooth
2X32



with a Kangaroo 2x daughterboard) knows where the

endpoints



(limit switches) are and will stop short of them
(called



Soft Limit points) even if I try to command a move past



them.



Maybe we can help? If your willing



I have a few questions; How are you using these

switches?



Are you using them as an end point identifier that
needs

to



be hit every time to get the motion to go the other
way?



What type of switches are you using for your limit

switches?



How much amperage are you pulling through them and how

many



amps are they rated for? Do you have a few pictures of

how



you have them installed?



I'm also curious on your slip



ring expectations. I know little about the types of
slip



rings out there. I at first wanted to use one in my

build



but was in too much of a hurry when I started my build

to



learn about them and take the time to find the right
one.

I



thought the slip ring was just for power transfer

between



two moving parts. How can they be used in place of
limit



switches? Also Mike mentioned there is one that allows

for



signals to pass through. Mike do you have any info or

links



on this you can share?



Have fun, Dave



Schulpius



On Sun, Nov 1, 2015 at



12:20 AM, Mike Handley mike_handley@yahoo.com



[B9Builders]



wrote:







































































































Me too, using it at the base of the CSS.



Commoned several pairs together to transport 24v to

the



torso, leaving the rest for signal lines.



Mike H















On



Nov 1, 2015, at 9:14 AM, Bob Darlington
rdarlington@gmail.com



[B9Builders]



wrote:































































































Yeah, or at least I'm



planning to. I bought the slip ring that was being

sold



in a group buy through the R2 club. It's
something



like 20 conductors and fairly small.



-Bob



On Sat, Oct 31, 2015 at



7:01 PM, Daniel Angel danielscottangel@gmail.com



[B9Builders]



wrote:







































































































Anyone using slip rings on their build?















D.Scott







--







Conquering the world one robot at a time....































































































































































































































































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David Schulpius
Posts: 1163
Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2011 7:57 pm

Re: Slip Rings

Post by David Schulpius » Sun Nov 01, 2015 1:32 pm

Bob, Why can't you have a switch at the end of the movement (let's not call it a limit switch) that cuts main power to the motor? Some people have a very simple setup using just the motor, end point switches and timers. Even with more complex setups that include a h-bridge and micro-controller why not have a panic switch with the motor power running through it that shuts down the motor if you have a runaway situation? A diode can also be added so you can reverse the power polarity, re-energize the motor and back the motor away under power. If all components in the circuit are properly sized what's the problem with this? I'm asking with true interest and no criticism of your statement.
My question and statement may be different than what you're stating and calling a limit switch. I agree that any switch sent signals back to a controller of some type should not be more than the controller requires. Usually 3.3 - 5 volts. Your thoughts?
Dave Schulpius
On Sun, Nov 1, 2015 at 11:43 AM, toblueiis toblueiis@yahoo.com [B9Builders] wrote:

Hello,

And just to help clarify, OVER-DESIGN is not similar to OVER-LOADED (LOL). I once was talking with an engineer who believed that the more devices he added to a loop, the higher the resistance, and the less current drawn, so the circuit just got better and better. Strange how this thinking was resulting in power supplies burning up. I told him that he should focus on each device having a rated wattage and adding them together gave a total wattage, which should be compared to the wattage rating of the power supplies, which he was overwhelming. After that, power supplies started lasting much longer.

Two important ratings to view when looking at parts, are the normal operating ratings and the surge ratings. It is never a good idea to constantly run parts at the surge ratings, whether voltage or current. It has such a drastic effect on lifespan. After all, we are looking to design our devices, and be able to move on to the next device. That being said, sometimes devices interact with each other as we didn't expect and we have to make some type of correction. But, that is part of the learning and growing experience. And fortunately there are a good number of good hearted builders out there who are willing to share their talents and experience, and even step into new areas to help fellow builders. It is nice to have such people who care about the struggles of other builders and wish the best for their efforts, even though they may never meet those other people.

thanks,

David M.

-------------------------------
On Sun, 11/1/15, toblueiis toblueiis@yahoo.com [B9Builders] wrote:

Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Slip Rings
To: B9Builders@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, November 1, 2015, 10:28 AM

Hello,

One of the best quotes that I ran across, and it may have
been from someone in this group, was OVER-DESIGN IS
UNDER-RATED !



thanks,



David M.



--------------------------------------------

On Sun, 11/1/15, David Schulpius dschulpius@wi.rr.com
[B9Builders] wrote:



Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Slip Rings

To: "Tobor001@aol.com [B9Builders]"


Date: Sunday, November 1, 2015, 10:12 AM



"Overheating during

soldering".... Wonder how I knew about that one.
Hehe.

:-)



David H is really hitting on an

important point and I need to validate what he's

saying. It's better to find out if there is a root
cause

to the switch failure other than the switch itself.

You don't want to keep this issue alive if

you don't really know the cause.
You don't want

to keep installing new parts or new designs without
really

knowing what the real specs of your power systems are. A
few

real important things to know about designing any
power

circuit other than the voltage (value and type)

is:How much current (amps) any and

all devices or motors will draw

How much current your power

supply is rated to give

How

how much current your conductors and connectors can

handle

How how much current can pass

through other

devices in the circuit (switches, diodes, resistors,

slip rings, exc) If any of these are

current underrated then you have a weak spot in the
chain

and will experience a failure. Hopefully it won't be

catastrophic or deadly.

No, I'm not being

dramatic with that last statement. ;-) We're usually

talking DC voltage with our robots and this voltage is a
lot

safer than AC. However, with DC overload or shorts you
can

still have heat and fires if the circuit is not properly

designed and protected. Also don't underestimate the

importance of proper fusing to protect both the
robot's

parts but your safety.

Let me know if I can help

you with any of this. Good pictures of your setup,
schematic

drawings of what you have built and component types and

specs will help make things easier to find any

problems.

Hope this

helps, Dave

Schulpius

On Sun, Nov 1, 2015 at 9:16

AM, toblueiis toblueiis@yahoo.com

[B9Builders]

wrote:























































Hello,







That brings up some good issues. If the limit switch is

being used for switching the load (motor), or if it is
being

used just for generating signals. If it is just
signals,

that switch should wear out mechanically before it would
be

damaged by the current load. Just sending a signal
takes

very little power. Dave S. presented some good points

including the possibility of overheating during soldering.


It would be nice to see the exact wiring of the switch,
with

all associated parts.







Some limit switches have pretty high current ratings, and
if

your switch is being damaged by a current issue, excess

current could be pretty rough on the slip rings.
Whether

you go to slip rings on not, it would still be a good
idea

to determine what is being your problem in this failure.
It

could relate to something else you will deal with
further

down the line with another circuit or mechanism, so you
can

take this into consideration in further designing.
Also,

any troubleshooting you will do, helps you be a better

troubleshooter in the future. You learn the mindset or

thinking patterns of being a better troubleshooter, and
it

isn't just limited to your robot.







thanks,







David M.







--------------------------------------------



On Sun, 11/1/15, David Schulpius dschulpius@wi.rr.com

[B9Builders]

wrote:







Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Slip Rings



To: "Tobor001@aol.com

[B9Builders]"



Date: Sunday, November 1, 2015, 8:49 AM











I was wondering the same thing as



David above. It's odd that the same switch has gone

bad



twice and in such a short time. Usually any type of

switch



is rated for tens of thousands of operations and should

last



for decades. Some factors that would limit the lifetime



would be over current of the rated amperage,
overheating

the



lugs when soldering or abuse (slamming into the switch

too



fast with the moving load). These stitched also can

easily



go out of calibration if not installed and set
properly.

For



example with micro switches; if you install the switch

and



bend the actuator arm so the moving load will trigger

the



switch but the actuator arm has to bend a little to

trigger



the switch, over time the arm will bend so it won't



trigger the switch anymore. I have limit switches

installed



also in both my waist and radar and they hardly ever
get



hit. They're just there to calibrate the end points

in



the control software and for a panic runaway situation.

My



control software (EZ Robot's EZ Builder that's



sending speed and position commands to a Sabertooth
2X32



with a Kangaroo 2x daughterboard) knows where the

endpoints



(limit switches) are and will stop short of them
(called



Soft Limit points) even if I try to command a move past



them.



Maybe we can help? If your willing



I have a few questions; How are you using these

switches?



Are you using them as an end point identifier that
needs

to



be hit every time to get the motion to go the other
way?



What type of switches are you using for your limit

switches?



How much amperage are you pulling through them and how

many



amps are they rated for? Do you have a few pictures of

how



you have them installed?



I'm also curious on your slip



ring expectations. I know little about the types of
slip



rings out there. I at first wanted to use one in my

build



but was in too much of a hurry when I started my build

to



learn about them and take the time to find the right
one.

I



thought the slip ring was just for power transfer

between



two moving parts. How can they be used in place of
limit



switches? Also Mike mentioned there is one that allows

for



signals to pass through. Mike do you have any info or

links



on this you can share?



Have fun, Dave



Schulpius



On Sun, Nov 1, 2015 at



12:20 AM, Mike Handley mike_handley@yahoo.com



[B9Builders]



wrote:







































































































Me too, using it at the base of the CSS.



Commoned several pairs together to transport 24v to

the



torso, leaving the rest for signal lines.



Mike H















On



Nov 1, 2015, at 9:14 AM, Bob Darlington
rdarlington@gmail.com



[B9Builders]



wrote:































































































Yeah, or at least I'm



planning to. I bought the slip ring that was being

sold



in a group buy through the R2 club. It's
something



like 20 conductors and fairly small.



-Bob



On Sat, Oct 31, 2015 at



7:01 PM, Daniel Angel danielscottangel@gmail.com



[B9Builders]



wrote:







































































































Anyone using slip rings on their build?















D.Scott







--







Conquering the world one robot at a time....































































































































































































































































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dmw0dmw
Posts: 134
Joined: Fri Jul 09, 2004 11:19 am

Re: Slip Rings

Post by dmw0dmw » Sun Nov 01, 2015 1:40 pm

Lots of good and inexpensive choices on ebay...That's new.


From: "Daniel Angel danielscottangel@gmail.com [B9Builders]"
To: "B9Builders"
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2015 9:28:49 PM
Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Slip Rings

 
Think I saw the same posting. I'd like to eliminate my limit switches on the B9 and the Droid.
Thanks Bob,
D. Scott

On Sat, Oct 31, 2015 at 6:14 PM, Bob Darlington rdarlington@gmail.com [B9Builders] wrote:
 
Yeah, or at least I'm planning to.  I bought  the slip ring that was being sold in a group buy through the R2 club.  It's something like 20 conductors and fairly small.
-Bob
On Sat, Oct 31, 2015 at 7:01 PM, Daniel Angel danielscottangel@gmail.com [B9Builders] wrote:
 
Anyone using slip rings on their build?

D.Scott
--
Conquering the world one robot at a time....




--
Conquering the world one robot at a time....

Bob Darlington
Posts: 203
Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2014 5:38 pm

Re: Slip Rings

Post by Bob Darlington » Sun Nov 01, 2015 3:24 pm

Cutting power to motors directly generates huge spikes in voltage due to the immediate termination of power. This translates to a rapid change in magnetic field (roughly going to zero in almost no time at all) which can and usually does result in a voltage spike in nearby or even the same winding. This fries switch contacts if you don't use snubber diodes to direct that pulse.

You could put a fail safe switch in case of over travel, but it has to be rated for it. I've used these in interlocks for x-ray/CT cabinets:http://www.automationdirect.com/static/specs/limitaem2g.pdf

They're rated for 10 million cycles at up to (on the conservative side) 1.5 amps at 230 volts AC (opening/break) or 15A at 240 VAC (close/make).

I have a feeling that most of us in the club are using something more like this:http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/307/en-ss-25270.pdf

And yeah, under the most ideal conditions such as in an arcade machine button, with very controlled contact force and low voltage that's not controlling an inductive load like a motor, they can hit 10 to 30 million switches cycles.
They have spade connectors so you don't heat them at all during assembly. And the typical switches I see out there are in the 0.1A column. Yah, you can buy the parts in the 10A column, but this is kinda crazy from my point of view.
Have any of you with failed switches actually tested the switch or done any forensics on them? I'm curious what's failing, and I'm curious how you're using them. Is it a mechanical failure of the switch mechanism or fried switch contact points? Something else?


-Bob


On Sun, Nov 1, 2015 at 11:31 AM, David Schulpius dschulpius@wi.rr.com [B9Builders] wrote:

Bob, Why can't you have a switch at the end of the movement (let's not call it a limit switch) that cuts main power to the motor? Some people have a very simple setup using just the motor, end point switches and timers. Even with more complex setups that include a h-bridge and micro-controller why not have a panic switch with the motor power running through it that shuts down the motor if you have a runaway situation? A diode can also be added so you can reverse the power polarity, re-energize the motor and back the motor away under power. If all components in the circuit are properly sized what's the problem with this? I'm asking with true interest and no criticism of your statement.
My question and statement may be different than what you're stating and calling a limit switch. I agree that any switch sent signals back to a controller of some type should not be more than the controller requires. Usually 3.3 - 5 volts. Your thoughts?
Dave Schulpius
On Sun, Nov 1, 2015 at 11:43 AM, toblueiis toblueiis@yahoo.com [B9Builders] wrote:

Hello,

And just to help clarify, OVER-DESIGN is not similar to OVER-LOADED (LOL). I once was talking with an engineer who believed that the more devices he added to a loop, the higher the resistance, and the less current drawn, so the circuit just got better and better. Strange how this thinking was resulting in power supplies burning up. I told him that he should focus on each device having a rated wattage and adding them together gave a total wattage, which should be compared to the wattage rating of the power supplies, which he was overwhelming. After that, power supplies started lasting much longer.

Two important ratings to view when looking at parts, are the normal operating ratings and the surge ratings. It is never a good idea to constantly run parts at the surge ratings, whether voltage or current. It has such a drastic effect on lifespan. After all, we are looking to design our devices, and be able to move on to the next device. That being said, sometimes devices interact with each other as we didn't expect and we have to make some type of correction. But, that is part of the learning and growing experience. And fortunately there are a good number of good hearted builders out there who are willing to share their talents and experience, and even step into new areas to help fellow builders. It is nice to have such people who care about the struggles of other builders and wish the best for their efforts, even though they may never meet those other people.

thanks,

David M.

-------------------------------
On Sun, 11/1/15, toblueiis toblueiis@yahoo.com [B9Builders] wrote:

Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Slip Rings
To: B9Builders@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, November 1, 2015, 10:28 AM

Hello,

One of the best quotes that I ran across, and it may have
been from someone in this group, was OVER-DESIGN IS
UNDER-RATED !



thanks,



David M.



--------------------------------------------

On Sun, 11/1/15, David Schulpius dschulpius@wi.rr.com
[B9Builders] wrote:



Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Slip Rings

To: "Tobor001@aol.com [B9Builders]"


Date: Sunday, November 1, 2015, 10:12 AM



"Overheating during

soldering".... Wonder how I knew about that one.
Hehe.

:-)



David H is really hitting on an

important point and I need to validate what he's

saying. It's better to find out if there is a root
cause

to the switch failure other than the switch itself.

You don't want to keep this issue alive if

you don't really know the cause.
You don't want

to keep installing new parts or new designs without
really

knowing what the real specs of your power systems are. A
few

real important things to know about designing any
power

circuit other than the voltage (value and type)

is:How much current (amps) any and

all devices or motors will draw

How much current your power

supply is rated to give

How

how much current your conductors and connectors can

handle

How how much current can pass

through other

devices in the circuit (switches, diodes, resistors,

slip rings, exc) If any of these are

current underrated then you have a weak spot in the
chain

and will experience a failure. Hopefully it won't be

catastrophic or deadly.

No, I'm not being

dramatic with that last statement. ;-) We're usually

talking DC voltage with our robots and this voltage is a
lot

safer than AC. However, with DC overload or shorts you
can

still have heat and fires if the circuit is not properly

designed and protected. Also don't underestimate the

importance of proper fusing to protect both the
robot's

parts but your safety.

Let me know if I can help

you with any of this. Good pictures of your setup,
schematic

drawings of what you have built and component types and

specs will help make things easier to find any

problems.

Hope this

helps, Dave

Schulpius

On Sun, Nov 1, 2015 at 9:16

AM, toblueiis toblueiis@yahoo.com

[B9Builders]

wrote:























































Hello,







That brings up some good issues. If the limit switch is

being used for switching the load (motor), or if it is
being

used just for generating signals. If it is just
signals,

that switch should wear out mechanically before it would
be

damaged by the current load. Just sending a signal
takes

very little power. Dave S. presented some good points

including the possibility of overheating during soldering.


It would be nice to see the exact wiring of the switch,
with

all associated parts.







Some limit switches have pretty high current ratings, and
if

your switch is being damaged by a current issue, excess

current could be pretty rough on the slip rings.
Whether

you go to slip rings on not, it would still be a good
idea

to determine what is being your problem in this failure.
It

could relate to something else you will deal with
further

down the line with another circuit or mechanism, so you
can

take this into consideration in further designing.
Also,

any troubleshooting you will do, helps you be a better

troubleshooter in the future. You learn the mindset or

thinking patterns of being a better troubleshooter, and
it

isn't just limited to your robot.







thanks,







David M.







--------------------------------------------



On Sun, 11/1/15, David Schulpius dschulpius@wi.rr.com

[B9Builders]

wrote:







Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Slip Rings



To: "Tobor001@aol.com

[B9Builders]"



Date: Sunday, November 1, 2015, 8:49 AM











I was wondering the same thing as



David above. It's odd that the same switch has gone

bad



twice and in such a short time. Usually any type of

switch



is rated for tens of thousands of operations and should

last



for decades. Some factors that would limit the lifetime



would be over current of the rated amperage,
overheating

the



lugs when soldering or abuse (slamming into the switch

too



fast with the moving load). These stitched also can

easily



go out of calibration if not installed and set
properly.

For



example with micro switches; if you install the switch

and



bend the actuator arm so the moving load will trigger

the



switch but the actuator arm has to bend a little to

trigger



the switch, over time the arm will bend so it won't



trigger the switch anymore. I have limit switches

installed



also in both my waist and radar and they hardly ever
get



hit. They're just there to calibrate the end points

in



the control software and for a panic runaway situation.

My



control software (EZ Robot's EZ Builder that's



sending speed and position commands to a Sabertooth
2X32



with a Kangaroo 2x daughterboard) knows where the

endpoints



(limit switches) are and will stop short of them
(called



Soft Limit points) even if I try to command a move past



them.



Maybe we can help? If your willing



I have a few questions; How are you using these

switches?



Are you using them as an end point identifier that
needs

to



be hit every time to get the motion to go the other
way?



What type of switches are you using for your limit

switches?



How much amperage are you pulling through them and how

many



amps are they rated for? Do you have a few pictures of

how



you have them installed?



I'm also curious on your slip



ring expectations. I know little about the types of
slip



rings out there. I at first wanted to use one in my

build



but was in too much of a hurry when I started my build

to



learn about them and take the time to find the right
one.

I



thought the slip ring was just for power transfer

between



two moving parts. How can they be used in place of
limit



switches? Also Mike mentioned there is one that allows

for



signals to pass through. Mike do you have any info or

links



on this you can share?



Have fun, Dave



Schulpius



On Sun, Nov 1, 2015 at



12:20 AM, Mike Handley mike_handley@yahoo.com



[B9Builders]



wrote:







































































































Me too, using it at the base of the CSS.



Commoned several pairs together to transport 24v to

the



torso, leaving the rest for signal lines.



Mike H















On



Nov 1, 2015, at 9:14 AM, Bob Darlington
rdarlington@gmail.com



[B9Builders]



wrote:































































































Yeah, or at least I'm



planning to. I bought the slip ring that was being

sold



in a group buy through the R2 club. It's
something



like 20 conductors and fairly small.



-Bob



On Sat, Oct 31, 2015 at



7:01 PM, Daniel Angel danielscottangel@gmail.com



[B9Builders]



wrote:







































































































Anyone using slip rings on their build?















D.Scott







--







Conquering the world one robot at a time....































































































































































































































































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joseph norman
Posts: 15
Joined: Wed Dec 23, 2009 4:40 pm

Re: Slip Rings

Post by joseph norman » Mon Nov 02, 2015 8:07 am

Hey guys im new to the club my dad was a member before he passed away his name was j Joseph Norman and so is mine I have his robot which is in really bad shape because of my brother I was wondering if anyone had any advice our extra spare parts that they can part out with so I can bring my dad's robot back from the dead and have something for his memory it's been in the family for asong as I can remember and it would mean a lot to him and me to fix his dream of a completed robot thanks for your time everyone hope you guys can help me
Sincerely
The new guy

dragonbackbone

Re: Slip Rings

Post by dragonbackbone » Mon Nov 02, 2015 8:29 am

Do you have any photos? What kind of parts are you looking for? Need some details....

joseph norman
Posts: 15
Joined: Wed Dec 23, 2009 4:40 pm

Re: Slip Rings

Post by joseph norman » Mon Nov 02, 2015 8:38 am

A lot the bubble is broke any design on the legs ad tred section arms all I pretty much kept was the torso which was salvage able ill send pics of what I was able to save thanks for the help
On Nov 2, 2015 8:29 AM, "dragonbackbone@yahoo.com [B9Builders]" wrote:

Do you have any photos? What kind of parts are you looking for? Need some details....

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