Re: Problem with Amplifier

[Jim Cruff]

I feel like I am in an episode of the Anti-Matter man (I am beside myself)
I am having amplifier problems. Anyone have any ideas? Here is the backstory. My B9 worked for years. I boxed it up for a move three years ago and recently started to restack him. My sound system run's Craig's IB9 software through an on-board amp. Power is 110 volts into a 12v Radio Shack power supply into the 12v amplifier. The important thing here is that everything worked before I boxed him up.
Last week, I purchased a Bluetooth receiver. When I setup a bench test, I could not get power to my amp (the Bluetooth worked fine). I even tried power from my car battery. And yes, the fuse is fine. I tested the power supply and it reads 14v. I gave up, figured I had lost my amp.
I bought a new amp (with Bluetooth) and received it Friday. Bench testing it, it will not power up -- either from the Radio Shack power supply or from my car battery. Fuse is good. I confirmed 14v from the leads to the amp. I see no power-on switches (I wish it were that easy). So, I either have two dead amps (unlikely) or I am forgetting something. What am I missing?
Here is the new amp www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WR6ZX4I
+ lead from power supply is going to +- lead from power supply is going to gndNo input cables are used since I intend to connect with Bluetooth. However, I did try input from my phone and that did not help.
Thanks in advance,Jim

[Bob Darlington]

The REM line needs to be connected to either +12 or to ground. I don't know which, but the manual should cover this or somebody else should jump in. The idea is if it's in a car or boat, you leave 12 volts connected at all times, but the REM or remote line will kick the amp on when you turn on your stereo. Most car stereos have a line for this type of application or for flipping a relay to extend an antenna, or whatever else you'd want to do when you power up the radio. If you're experimenting, I recommend starting by jumpering it to ground first. That probably won't hurt it if it's wrong.
-Bob

On Sun, Sep 13, 2015 at 10:42 AM, Jim Cruff jimcruff@gmail.com [B9Builders] wrote:

I feel like I am in an episode of the Anti-Matter man (I am beside myself)
I am having amplifier problems. Anyone have any ideas? Here is the backstory. My B9 worked for years. I boxed it up for a move three years ago and recently started to restack him. My sound system run's Craig's IB9 software through an on-board amp. Power is 110 volts into a 12v Radio Shack power supply into the 12v amplifier. The important thing here is that everything worked before I boxed him up.
Last week, I purchased a Bluetooth receiver. When I setup a bench test, I could not get power to my amp (the Bluetooth worked fine). I even tried power from my car battery. And yes, the fuse is fine. I tested the power supply and it reads 14v. I gave up, figured I had lost my amp.
I bought a new amp (with Bluetooth) and received it Friday. Bench testing it, it will not power up -- either from the Radio Shack power supply or from my car battery. Fuse is good. I confirmed 14v from the leads to the amp. I see no power-on switches (I wish it were that easy). So, I either have two dead amps (unlikely) or I am forgetting something. What am I missing?
Here is the new amp www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WR6ZX4I
+ lead from power supply is going to +- lead from power supply is going to gndNo input cables are used since I intend to connect with Bluetooth. However, I did try input from my phone and that did not help.
Thanks in advance,Jim

[Jim Cruff]

Bingo. It was the REM connection. Thank you, Bob. The manual only showed connections from a car stereo going to REM and I did not think that would be necessary for this circuit.
Jim

On Sun, Sep 13, 2015 at 11:47 AM, Bob Darlington rdarlington@gmail.com [B9Builders] wrote:

The REM line needs to be connected to either +12 or to ground. I don't know which, but the manual should cover this or somebody else should jump in. The idea is if it's in a car or boat, you leave 12 volts connected at all times, but the REM or remote line will kick the amp on when you turn on your stereo. Most car stereos have a line for this type of application or for flipping a relay to extend an antenna, or whatever else you'd want to do when you power up the radio. If you're experimenting, I recommend starting by jumpering it to ground first. That probably won't hurt it if it's wrong.
-Bob
On Sun, Sep 13, 2015 at 10:42 AM, Jim Cruff jimcruff@gmail.com [B9Builders] wrote:

I feel like I am in an episode of the Anti-Matter man (I am beside myself)
I am having amplifier problems. Anyone have any ideas? Here is the backstory. My B9 worked for years. I boxed it up for a move three years ago and recently started to restack him. My sound system run's Craig's IB9 software through an on-board amp. Power is 110 volts into a 12v Radio Shack power supply into the 12v amplifier. The important thing here is that everything worked before I boxed him up.
Last week, I purchased a Bluetooth receiver. When I setup a bench test, I could not get power to my amp (the Bluetooth worked fine). I even tried power from my car battery. And yes, the fuse is fine. I tested the power supply and it reads 14v. I gave up, figured I had lost my amp.
I bought a new amp (with Bluetooth) and received it Friday. Bench testing it, it will not power up -- either from the Radio Shack power supply or from my car battery. Fuse is good. I confirmed 14v from the leads to the amp. I see no power-on switches (I wish it were that easy). So, I either have two dead amps (unlikely) or I am forgetting something. What am I missing?
Here is the new amp www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WR6ZX4I
+ lead from power supply is going to +- lead from power supply is going to gndNo input cables are used since I intend to connect with Bluetooth. However, I did try input from my phone and that did not help.
Thanks in advance,Jim